Once the leading man at luxury-juggernauts Saint Laurent and Ermenegildo Zegna, it was of natural assumption that Stefano Pilati would take the helm at another stellar house. Both Lanvin and Celine have crept up the rumour mill as possible new ventures for the Italian designer, but after a three-year hiatus, the decision for Pilati was to go at it alone. Random Identities made its debut last November at an off-schedule catwalk at SSENSE’s Montreal headquarters. The e-tailer’s dimly-lit office space, resembling the mundane cubical walls Neo worked in before entering The Matrix, served as the perfect backdrop for the brand’s inception. Twenty looks strong, in a moody palette of blacks and charcoal greys, Pilati’s vision for Random Identites was catered more toward Berlin clubbers than Parisian socialites. Released via a drop system as opposed to the traditional seasonal format, the collection was clearly targeted towards a younger generation than his previous ventures.
The just-dropped, third instalment of Random Identities was made for the ardent Pilato fans who were in awe of his pristine Zegna tailoring skills, though now at a more accessible price-point. Titled Tailoring, it’s formalwear, cut with precision and carrying classic suiting sensibilities. Revere-collared, white PJ shirts, printed with a graphic of a bra sell for £150, whilst wide-legged trousers, cut low at the crotch, respectively stand at £205. Tailored staples from Pilati’s own archive are refracted through a Berlin-tinged lens. A stand-out blazer, shoulders padded to 80s volumes, is as Berghain-ready as it is for the board room. This multi-purpose outlook on designing filters through to a six button, double breasted suit. A personal favourite of Pilati for its “inter-seasonal chic look when combined with flat front pants”.
Amid a crowded menswear scene, claustrophobic with high-end streetwear hype, Random Identities is an anti-elitist sentiment. Simply put – these are good, fairly priced, clean-cut clothes – absent of excessive logos and brash monograms. A much needed palate cleanser in the contemporary menswear market. Stefano Pilati’s philosophy for Random Identities moves is in tandem with the season-less direction luxury fashion has began to take, thanks to Kering giants Gucci and Balenciaga. Seasonal ‘themes’ have become foggy, switched in favour for a continues aesthetic that welcomes a wider demographic. A new type of customer who can purchase a lower priced piece from a collection, and not feel alienated when the next season rolls around. Pilati’s blend of classic tailoring with gritty inner-city energy was echoed at Balenciaga’s AW19 co-ed collection, where the brand’s signature bulky trainers, were switched for square-toed loafers – the focus poised toward minimal stripped-back silhouettes. Rest assured, you won’t find the Random Identities man standing in line on the streets of London’s Soho, waiting for the latest Palace and Supreme drops. He’s too hungover from last night’s party, that trickled into the early hours of the next morning. That’s how we like it.
‘Tailoring’ by Random Identities is available to shop via SSENSE and in Dover Street Markets worldwide.
