March 1, 2019 |
Mr Jonathan Anderson is intent on making Loewe the home of interesting clothes. His collections are deeply thought through, crafted and considered. They speak to a woman who understands aesthetics – she’s no stranger to the gallery for work or pleasure. She wants to look interesting because she is interesting. The AW19 collection played to Anderson’s strengths. It was inspired by 16th and 17th century portrait miniatures which lined the catwalk and provided a reminder that selfie culture and the desire to present your best self to the world, goes back a long way.
The clothes took on historical nuances – the curve of a frock coat pocket, the flare of a bell sleeve, the hourglass silhouette on a jacket – but they never looked like costume. Craft always plays a starring role at Loewe. How else to explain a delicate, pin-tucked organza nightdress that melded into a poloneck knit or the paisley patchwork’s fashioned into coats and glittering dresses. There was plenty of arty eccentricity. One skirt was made from silver tinsel fronds, square toe boots came with clunky wooden “table leg” heels and saffron coloured maribou was knitted into long trailing scarves. Whimsy is welcome in the Loewe world and in ours too.
Photographs by Jason-Lloyd Evans.
