February 24, 2019 |
The Cavalli woman likes animal print, but how do you give animalia a contemporary spin? Designer, Paul Surridge found the answer. The Brit talked about being inspired by the liberated women of the 1920’s and that eras futurist obsession. He channelled the house’s signature animal print through a Lolita Lempica lens, to create what he described as “a stylised tiger.” This dynamic graphic rippled across fluid dresses, and sharp coats and jackets. It also appeared on men’s pieces in this co-ed show. Surridge took a similar approach to snakeprint, using beading to suggest scales on shimmering jumpsuits and sleek polonecks. Backstage he outlined his aim: “Making women look exquisite. Making women look cool.” His background in menswear served him well in that respect. The show ended with Lineisy Montero in an impeccable white tux, which mirrored the roomy cut of the men’s pieces. The modern Cavalli woman borrows from the boys. Surridge’s big challenge is bringing a modern sexuality to the Cavalli brand which has a reputation for oomph in that department. He did it with stand-out fit and flare knit dresses, with curve enhancing deco detailing. Bella Hadid in a yellow skater silhouette worn with over the knee boots summed up the new Cavalli sass.
Photographs by Jason-Lloyd Evans.
