February 15, 2019 |
It was a major moment for Hussein Chalayan yesterday. For a quarter of a century, this creative genius has been turning look after look, season after season. All those spectacles that tested the limits of what fashion shows (and fashion in general) can do to contribute to the society. So, how does one celebrate their 25th anniversary? Perhaps an archival, best-of show? Absolutely not. As always, it’s about pushing the conversation forward at Chalayan, and this was no different. Titled Pre-tension, the designer’s AW19 collection was a natural continuation from his menswear showing back in January. Finding beauty in the notion of pretence and reimagining tradition with a healthy dose of subversion. Hussein Chalayan has years of experience in crafting ideas into clothes, and it definitely shows.
Conservative codes are now put in a sexual content – business skirts have morphed into garters, corsetry becomes part of tailoring, rubber and leather pop up where you wouldn’t expect them. The clothes were abstract in their ideas, but clearly made to be worn. Part of Chalayan’s inspiration came from the ball scene. Hand sculptures that sat on some model’s faces formed voguing poses, while other models had performers in all-black fanning them and flouncing their dresses. Creases, tucks and cut-outs – these women oozed with sexless erotica, serving the finest examples of power dressing. In ball terms, the show was all about high executive realness. And there were tens, tens, tens across the board.
Photographs by Philip Banks.
