September 21, 2018 |
A step change for Versace: the label has dipped heavily into its archive of late with a golden chainmail supermodel tribute show this time last year, and a tartan punky outing last season. For SS19, the references weren’t so direct but keen Versace obsessives could see the influence of the SS 1993 collection, perhaps because Shalom Harlow, who starred in the campaign all those years ago, closed the show. That said, there were few direct archival lifts – although a flared multi print jumpsuit came close. As with that seminal collection, there were plenty of pretty floral prints and textures but the silhouettes were quite different from 1993. They spoke to a modern customer – one who likes to go clubbing.
Draped leather bandeau minis and stretchy body-con jersey dresses had plenty of vampish attitude but Versace also embraced a new, more eccentric muse with models wearing sheer floral skirts with matching floral tights or skimpy, stretchy floral mesh camisoles layered over clashing tees. Denim jackets came emblazoned in Versace’s pastel baroque prints and neon yellow leather, mini dresses were worm with trainers rather than six-inch spikes. It felt fun, young and clubby as opposed to glamazonian. Donatella is a woman who knows how to have a good time and this was a collection to dance till dawn in.
Photographs by Jason-Lloyd Evans.
