February 15, 2018 |
Larger than life. A whole lot of theatrical excess was booming down that runway at the Marc Jacobs show. Big hats, big shoulders. Oh, the drama. Marc Jacobs was channeling ‘80s power. They walked, unbothered, hands on hips so lithe and lean. Philip Glass’ compositions were on full discordant blast, music from the Candyman soundtrack. Muffled pipe organs kept the rhythm and creepy choral chanting added the right touch of thriller to the looming silhouettes. Proportions were overblown but there was a sense of modesty as well, women were completely covered from head to toe and topped off with Spanish style slick hats. Wide shoulder padded jackets in sumptuous emerald greens, vivid fuchsia and sizzling yellows gave us flashbacks of an era that was loud. Slam.
But yet it felt quite oddly sombre. Moody Marc. These were show stopping clothes. Look at me, look at me! Glossy leather trench coats and cascading rosettes of taffeta were belted at the waist. Wide leather pleated pants fanned out, jumbo pussy bows framed faces and drop balloon sleeves engulfed. Gussied up. Heels elevated all the excess, radzimir, velvets, moirés. Ooh and we must mention that stormy grey knitted leotard jumper cape situation. She was prowling, all bad and boujee. We felt that ‘80s love to Yves Saint Laurent, Montana, Ungaro… That moment of flashy extravagance, an ostentatious display of wealth. Greed is good. Out with a big booming bang and off we go. Toodles NYFW.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd Evans
