Jonathan Anderson is very, very clever. He’s revived Loewe spectacularly, and speedily – in three years, it’s risen to the top of the fashion pile. The odd collages and juxtapositions are what give this designer’s work – at his own JW Anderson label, and Loewe – an edge. They’re sometimes so random, so dada, that they’re genius – like a trumpet dangling from a male model’s earlobe, or a jacket where no two buttons seemed alike, or a top that had nothing to do with the bottom half it had seemingly collided with. It’s all very thought out, of course, which is why the spontaneity it captures is so remarkable. It would be easy for this all to look difficult, or overthought, or undesirable. But it’s none of those. Loewe, for all its madcap craziness as a total outfit, can be easily pulled apart into great, covetable separates for men at every level – banker and (moneyed) schoolboy alike could wear the labels’ shearling-lined denim coats or deep turned-up jeans. Especially yummy this season were clotted-cream aran knit totes and coats with “Loewe” rough-stitched across the chest. We’ll have two of each. Make that two dozen…
