What’s in a name? Well, quite a lot actually. In the case of the rechristening of London Collections: Men to London Fashion Week Men’s (which begins tomorrow) any connotation that it’s just an add-on to it’s older womenswear sister has been well as truly shaken off. Quite rightly. Because, as per, it’s four days that promise to be jam packed with talent old and new – designers who will, undoubtedly, have us making various inappropriate groans of pleasure as they present us their brand new wares. And the big news? Dame Viv is back. She’ll be showing her menswear collection in its birthplace this Monday, alongside a smattering of womenswear, bringing it back from Milan. Call it a homecoming. But who else have we got our eyes trained on?
Charles Jeffrey
With all the wild abandon of his London club-night, Charles Jeffrey has electrified Fashion East’s MAN (where he shows for a third and final time this season) with his brilliant menswear that references everything from early Westwood, the Blitz Kids all the way to full-blown couture, in a riot of colour, facepaint and noise. It’s safe to say that we (with particular emphasis on our Editrix-in-Chief, Sophia Neophitou) are ob-sessed.
Craig Green
It’s no secret that we fucking love Craig Green. Excuse my French. He’s probably the nicest man in men’s fashion and happens to be an exceptional talent to boot. Late last year he won the Fashion Award for Menswear Designer of the Year, so he comes to this with all the gravitas of designers that have been working for three times as long.
Wales Bonner
Wales Bonner is the thinking man’s (or woman’s, her clothing being equally enjoyed by both genders) designer. This is mainly down to the fact that she is a storyteller – her intricate collections, that evoke far off lands and her own mixed-race heritage, present a delicate, romantic view of masculinity that has made her, in the process, one of the most sought out tickets of the week. So get your elbows ready, because this one’s going to be a bun fight.
Chalayan
Another big name addition to the schedule. Yes, he who buried clothes and dug them back up again (sorry, he’s probably bored of talking about that), as well as bringing us many more magical fashion moments besides, Hussein Chalayan will show a menswear collection this Sunday. So just nod and pretend you know what you’re talking about, because this one’s going to be conceptual.
Bobby Abley
Usually there are some sort of muscle-clad men in the building for Bobby Abley (and one year, a full on Christina Aguilera impersonator) so it’s safe to say we’re very much ‘in’ when it comes to the London-based designer. Last season Bobby took us all the way to Brazil with his signature Disney-inspired prints, so we pose the question: where next? His show’s on Friday. Stay tuned.
J.W. Anderson
Now firmly what we will call a ‘big gun’ of London fashion, J.W.Anderson, or as he’s affectionately known around these parts, J Dubz, is sure to serve up a platter of menswear we’ll be veritably gagging to get our hands on. And possibly may be caught shoving some in handbag backstage. We’re sure he won’t mind.
Vivienne Westwood
We’ve mentioned her once, but, well, she bears repeating. because she is, after all, the grand dame of London fashion, a woman making her triumphant return to the city that housed her original store on the King’s Road. To which we say: finally. What took you so long? And gird your loins – we’ve been promised by, let’s just say “sources”, that this one’s gonna be mahoosive. Just how we like it.
Photographs (from top) Craig Green SS17 by Jason Lloyd-Evans, Wales Bonner courtesy of the designer and J.W. Anderson by Jason Lloyd-Evans
