October 3, 2016 |
“Game-changers that were iconic in what they did.” That was the Sacai SS17 inspiration, Chitose Abe told us backstage after the show. And she chose some good ones. The show began with a good beat and Nirvana… remixed. We could almost hear Kurt Cobain rolling in his grave. But all was forgiven as Cobain’s style and attitude was so cleverly infused into the collection through distressed beat up denim, leopard print coats and sheepskin jackets. Cobain chic. That Sacai utilitarian tough romance was pulsing. Volume frothed out into folds of the skirts. Daniel Johnston’s Hi How Are You Sept 83 album artwork was printed on t-shirts, another Cobain moment, as he wore them. A dark undertone in a collection that Abe believed felt “happy and positive”. So who else was invited to the party? All the greats, of course. Picasso stripes in light pastels and berets felt so Francois and Jane Birkin style trench coats, pleats poking out so delicately. Hendrix style fringing and feathers, too. The whole crew’s here. John Lennon’s voice rang out over the music: “War is over if you want it.” The war may be over but these girls are still fighting. Freedom fighters. We love a girl who puts up a good fight. And in great kick-your-head-in Pierre Hardy platform boots. Good one, Sacai.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans
