Are you ready to unleash your gothic side? Introducing Issue 70 of 10 Magazine – ROMANCE, REBEL, RESISTANCE – arriving on newsstands March 24. For the first of nine covers, Ilse Roffel wears Christopher Kane, shot by Cedric Buchet and styled by our Editrix-in-Chief, Sophia Neophitou.
For a glimpse inside the issue, read the editor’s letter below.
As the show season unravelled, we saw the Gothic Girl reign supreme. In London, the conversation was more punky, scrappy and DIY. Most of the looks felt thrifted or stitched together, with Victorian- or Edwardian-inspired pieces evoking the dark beauty of Bram Stoker’s Dracula. This iteration was at the core of Dilara Findikoğlu’s brilliant show, where models slowly undulated around each room of a broken, dishevelled mansion near Hyde Park.
Versace’s vampy brides fell into the punkier, Y2K, Goth Princess category along with Blumarine. Prada presented a Wednesday Addams vision. Pat McGrath’s make-up was genius, with super-extended black eyelashes casting long shadows on the girls’ cheeks. They wore organza A-line, lace-trimmed negligees and walked through shadowy, black paper doorways of a set that could have been a haunted house. Then came the LA goths, darkly elegant and inspired by the silver screen, radiating vampiric Hollywood glamour. Ruling over them all is fashion’s Dark Lord, California-born Rick Owens, a lifelong and committed goth who keeps a human skull in his apartment and travels with his own sarcophagus. The catwalk’s very own Prince of Darkness did not disappoint. Hooded figures descended the grand stone staircases at the Palais de Tokyo. Emerging from the rising mists, these glamourous, futuristic goths looked like creatures from another world. Anders Christian Madsen brilliantly describes his own wonderful relationship with Rick, how his influence has threaded through his career and what an inspiration Owens has been.
One of Rick’s quotes, spoken after his SS18 menswear show, has become a rallying cry to anyone oppressed by the norm. “In this time of hate and pain, we need a remedy. I need a freak,” said the designer. “A freak to me is something rare, sensational, inspired by the unusual. And I’m seeing this normality in the world that’s being lionised and deified, and personally that’s my refrain: I need a freak in life. I need to be surprised. I need effort. And I need things to be rare and not banal. Celebrating the prosaic and conventional is amusing but it’s not the spirit of my spirit. It’s a little mean-spirited. A little snotty.”
So whatever strain of goth you may be, whatever the aesthetic or subculture, all types of goths will find a way to gravitate toward each other, as they do in this issue. Its pages are peopled by so many beautiful Dark Princes and Princesses. Find them inspired by Siouxsie Sioux and shot by Derek Ridgers, deep in the forest, or hiding in the dappled light of the woods shielding from the sun, shot by Cedric Buchet.
The words in the issue explore the goth diaspora, with Emma Davidson penning a brilliant piece about its clubbing history and its modern influence. The theme unravels extensively throughout, as seen through the lens of each creative. I absolutely loved putting this issue together. It really did make my own little gothic heart sing. I hope you enjoy consuming our conversations and that the issue encourages you to bring out your inner goth.
Issue 70 of 10 Magazine – ROMANCE, REBEL, RESISTANCE – is on newsstands March 24. Pre-order your copy here.
Photographer CEDRIC BUCHET
Fashion Editor SOPHIA NEOPHITOU
Model ILSE ROFFEL at Elite Management
Make-up PEP GAY at Management Artists Agency
Manicurist ROBERTA RODI at Blend Management using Manucurist
Fashion assistant GEORGIA EDWARDS
Casting ARIANNA PRADARELLI
Production ZAC APOSTOLOU