November 7, 2011 |
Shu Pei wears Giorgio Armani. Photographer: Norbert Schoerner, Fashion Editor: Sophia Neophitou.
Editor’s Letter
My fascination with China began when, as a child in the 1970s, I would be glued to the television, watching programmes like The Water Margin (for you youngsters, it was a series made of one of the Four Great Classical Novels of Chinese literature, detailing the trials and tribulations of 108 outlaws during the Song Dynasty) and Monkey, which was based on the 16th-century Chinese novel Journey to the West. I adored these two programmes; they took me on a fantasy trip to China every time I watched, and I was utterly engrossed in the adventures as they unfolded.
My next encounter was a few years ago, when I did a little baby-sitting job as fashion director of Chinese Vogue for a season. Travelling there and getting a tiny little peek into that world as it was then – and realising the potential of this market – was a real eye-opener. The hunger to learn and grow at such an accelerated rate was astonishing. Fast-forward to now, where this market has become a major power player, with statistics predicting that, in the next decade, China will account for 44% of global spending on handbags and clothes – almost half of the world’s consumption of luxury goods – giving this market ultimate power over the aesthetic of the way collections are now designed. Even now, the Western fashion world is aggressively courting these consumers and, in some cases, going as far to design separate collections specifically for this market. Ralph Lauren’s latest collection had a Chinese theme; Marc Jacobs’s Louis Vuitton show three seasons ago was all about a China girl; and who could forget Karl Lagerfeld’s legendary spring/summer 2008 collection for Fendi on the Great Wall?
What is also interesting about this market, with its rich heritage, is how much vintage is detested; China’s is a culture of looking forward, never back. Whereas Western designers often reference the past and we adore the idea of buying vintage, this is a market that does not exist in China. They want to be perceived as absolutely modern and current.
So, my fascination has evolved into a full-blown exploration of all things Chinese – artists, stores, brands, whose growth can be totally measured by these consumers, and all the gorgeous Chinese models who have become an essential on every runway. We also discuss how the Chinese customer is being hailed as the saviour of couture. Having totally revitalised the business by increasing sales, this consumer represents the cavalry in every way.
This issue is crammed full of information that is inspiring and hopefully insightful. Hope you enjoy it, dear Tenners, and remember, as Confucius says, “Wheresoever you go, go with all your heart.”
Xie Xie,
Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou
Editor-in-Chief
