Zegna made a fitting finale to this season’s Milanese shows, as brands both big and small drove home “quiet luxury” ideals through logo-less garb and relaxed-yet-sublimely done tailoring. Those after their own Succession wardrobe don’t have to stray too far from Zegna, whose artistic director, Alessandro Sartori, has never been one to shout about how brilliant his clothes are. The brand’s luxe fabrics and relaxed cuts do all the talking.
This season, Zegna took over Milan’s Piazza San Fedele for its show. Gigantic bales of what appeared to be hay lined the spice. They were actually made from Zegna’s raw linen flax, which was imported from Normandy and will go on to create the house’s linens in Zegna factories in Italy. Said fabric was the collection’s focal point, fashioning low-cut polo-shirts, elevated boiler suits and trousers that pooled effortlessly over the ankle, as Sartori continued his quest to soften classic men’s tailoring. “At Zegna we keep rethinking what an efficient wardrobe should be like today, further delving into the idea of creating a system of elements — tops, bottoms, underpinnings and accessories — that can be combined and self-styled however one prefers,” said the designer.” It’s the idea of the uniform that prompts non uniformity.”
Fluid volumes and easy-going shapes – from airy duster coats and bomber jackets to peach pink shirts and pistachio-coloured shorts – spoke of a soft precision that has come to brilliantly define Sartori’s tenure for the brand. Yes, quietly done, but worth shouting about.
Photography courtesy of Zegna.
