March 8, 2025 |
Yohji Yamamoto’s AW25 womenswear collection continued his exploration of deconstruction and conceptual elegance. That meant models, draped in pieces that felt both fragmented and whole, reflected Yamamoto’s signature avant-garde style.
The collection placed a strong emphasis on outerwear, with designs that epitomised Yamamoto’s love for swaddling silhouettes and intricate layering. Thick black coats were deconstructed, incorporating twists and folds that created three-dimensional shapes. A memorable moment saw four pairs of models swap their long black coats, flipping them inside out to reveal rich purple linings, each quilted in different patterns. This simple exchange spoke to hidden mysteries and a yearning for connection.
The coats were adorned with geometric shapes in white and purple, while squiggly cords crossed the torso, lending a sculptural quality to the pieces. Some featured patch-worked corsets, designed not to shape the body but to bring the fabric closer to it. The collection also included fluid skirts, asymmetric dresses and voluminous trousers, all grounded with flat shoes that made the extravagant designs feel wearable.
Yamamoto reaffirmed his status as a visionary, blending art and fashion into pieces that remain timeless and personal, transcending trends and offering addicting intellectual depth.
Photography courtesy of Yohji Yamamoto.
