October 5, 2022 |
Sacai’s Chitose Abe is a designer who thrives when clothing gets complex. Her deft pattern-cutting ability – and singular approach to welding unlikely garment pairings together – have led to her hybrid-heavy collections becoming a staple on the Paris schedule.
Yet this season, it appeared Abe was breaking free from the signatures which make up her design lexicon. In her show notes, she described her SS23 collection as “proposing clothes that bring with them an attitude of positivity,
gentle strength, dignity and joy.” Playfully pleated came blazers sliced to become capes, drainpipe trousers fashioned in tinfoil-like silver which bloomed into flares, and tracksuits which looked more akin to elegant pantsuits.
Sacai’s pleat-mainia symbolised freedom, according to the designer, who was fascinated at how a garment’s folds break open as the wearer strides. The technique also softened the brand’s mannish trench and MA1 bombers, which are repositioned as pretty A-line frocks worn with detachable belts with big boxy pockets. Ideal for a girl on the go.
Photography by MCV Photo.
