March 4, 2022 |
Set in the derelict Hotel de Guise, Dries Van Noten channeled undone glitz and debaucherous glam in his AW22 exhibition. This season, Van Noten exchanged walking models for mannequins dolled up with the patterns of the collection and make-up that echoed the bold eyes and lips of Mina Mazzini. But the clothes were anything but wooden, with an array of metallic textures and arcing shoulders offset by super feminine, cinched waists.
For the ladies who like to lunch, Van Noten incorporated fine china motifs across the body to inject antiqual balance. More understated pieces came into their own through crisp tailoring and textures, with necks adorned by glittering crystals and butterfly chokers. Intricacies that may be lost on the runway came to life in the shadows of Hotel de Guise, complete with a feast for the senses as Van Noten also exhibited the launch of a line of fragrance and lipsticks.
But it was maximalism that was in abundance with vibrant, clashing prints. From untamed animal print to bohemian paisley. With inspiration taken from Carlo Mollino’s saucy polaroids, there were lace-up boots and crimson leather gloves to lust for.
Decadence came in the form of a disco-freak silver coat complete with a collar of feathers and elevated quilted coats that cocooned the wearer in puffer heaven.
Photography courtesy of Dries Van Noten.
