Dior: Ready-To-Wear AW22

Maria Grazia Chiuri took fashion into a new space with a show that blended the couture traditions of Dior and its signature hourglass silhouettes with high-tech, protective clothing. The designer collaborated with Italian technical clothing start-up, D-Air lab**, which specialises in integrating protective airbags into clothing for skiers. The technology is also used by equestrians, motorcyclists and rigging workers.

Chiuri integrated high-tech protective pieces into her looks which, in turn, had the same cinching and curve enhancing effect on the silhouette as the house’s famous corsetry. The iconic Bar jacket was also back in force, often cinched with inflatable panels that could protect the body from impact or climate. Even the shoes (versions of Roger Vivier’s ‘Comma’ kitten heels) had special anti-twist straps. “We have this idea that technology is something just a little bit unreal,” said the designer. “We use technology more for communication, and think less about how it can help us to live better. We are used to expecting it in very practical things: washing machines, but not fashion.”

That she chose to focus on clothes with an explicit technical, protective element is significant when so many aren’t safe and as war rages in Ukraine. Chiuri couldn’t have foreseen the turn of world events but her collection was as much a comment on where we are emotionally as it was a practical fashion suggestion.

It was all set against the backdrop of “The Next Era” installation by feminist artist Mariella Bettineschi, who adapts some of the most famous female portraits in art history with two sets is eyes — no longer are they there to be stared at, but they stare back.