March 2, 2018 |
Move bish, get out the way. Ann Demeulemeester’s army is coming, hard and fast. Sebastien Meunier did not veer from the true Demeulemeester deep-into-the-night darkness for this collection. Wickedly good. Black on black and dangerous. Our people. Yes, intense, but put together in such a way that it didn’t feel heavy. Subtly peaked shouldered coats were light, leather harnesses fell away around the waist and black gloves crawled up above the elbows, Gila style. 1940s heroines in their dark, twisted ways. Shoulderless overcoats made way for skin, cutting into all that noir. Hoods scooped up, these women were fighters, off to battle in a futuristic, troubled world. Vampires in a Hunger Games situation but much better dressed, obvs.
A classic Ann Demeulemeester break of pure white, like a sigh of relief in sheer chiffon added a disguised, ethereal feel to it all. Tricky. Ribbed necklines on knits fell freely in jumpers and dresses and waists were cinched with shiny leather corsets. Bauhaus’ ‘Bela Lugosi’s Dead’ rumbled through the finale, “The bats have left the bell tower, the victims have been bled… The virginal brides file past his tomb… Undead undead undead.” These girls are very much alive and thriving in the dead of the night. We can hear bats screeching, bell towers ringing and girls chanting on their way to battle… We’re getting carried away.
