April 7, 2025 |
Watches and Wonders made its triumphant return to Geneva this past week, for a dazzling 2025 showcase of horology’s finest. Running from Saturday, April 5 to Monday, April 7, this year’s edition unfolded across two key locations – the Palexpo Salon and throughout the wider city – bringing together 60 of the world’s most prestigious watchmaking maisons. Returning powerhouses like Rolex, Patek Philippe and Cartier were joined by exciting new names such as Bvlgari, Norqain and Bremont, underlining the industry’s evolving landscape.
The fair welcomed professionals, journalists and enthusiasts from across the globe, with product presentations, immersive workshops and hands-on demonstrations offering rare access to the craftsmanship behind the world’s finest timepieces. Festivities kicked off early on Thursday, April 3, with the ‘In The City’ evening, where boutiques stayed open late and a live concert by French electronic duo Bon Entendeur transformed the Quai Général-Guisan into a celebration of sound and style.
A central theme for 2025 was the new generation of watchmakers. Visitors could engage with apprentices and explore student-led innovations at the LAB – an interactive hub uniting schools, startups and young creatives. At the Watchmaking Village on the Pont de la Machine, younger attendees discovered training opportunities, live demonstrations and SwissSkills 2025 qualifiers in microtechnology.
With Geneva fully transformed by exhibitions, talks, screenings and pop-up experiences, the week highlighted both tradition and forward-thinking design. Here, we take a closer look at the standout releases and innovations that stole the spotlight at Watches and Wonders 2025.
Hublot
To mark 20 years of the Big Bang – the first true icon of 21st-century horology – Hublot goes all in. Think five limited-edition fusions of past and present, a one-of-a-kind high-complication capsule and sapphire-drenched sets that shimmer like wearable sci-fi. From the minty-fresh One Clicks to the crystalline precision of the Water Blue Unico, this is watchmaking turned maximalist art form. Audacity? Always. Legacy? Cemented. And for those who thought innovation had its limits – Hublot just redefined them. Welcome to the future of time, where boundaries dissolve and everything ticks to Hublot’s fearless beat. Happy birthday, Big Bang. You’ve never looked better.
Chanel
Chanel’s 2025 watch collection is a celebration of innovation and craftsmanship, debuting at the fourth Edition of Watches & Wonders in Geneva. The J12 Bleu, a limited-edition release, reimagines the iconic J12 with a stunning new blue matte ceramic – a hue developed over five years. This collection, featuring nine exquisite pieces, blends radiance and precision, with some models adorned in brilliant sapphires. The Première Galon introduces a couture-inspired braided bracelet, adding a new dimension to the house’s signature timepiece. Other highlights include the J12 River Diamonds, set with over 1,600 diamonds, and the sleek Monsieur Superleggera Bleu Edition, marking a bold step into the world of luxury sports watches. Each piece demonstrates Chanel’s mastery of watchmaking and its relentless pursuit of elegance.
Montblanc
Montblanc has expanded its iconic 1858 collection with innovative timepieces designed for adventurers and watch enthusiasts alike. The 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Monte Rosa and Mount Vinson Limited Editions embrace Montblanc’s 0 Oxygen technology, which ensures enhanced durability by preventing oxidation and fogging in extreme conditions. The Geosphere 0 Oxygen Monte Rosa features a warm, golden-toned design with a glacier-pattern dial, while the Mount Vinson edition honours Reinhold Messner’s Antarctic ascent with a titanium case and luminous mountain engraving. Additionally, the Iced Sea collection introduces a distressed steel finish and 0 Oxygen technology, enhancing the rugged appeal with glacier-pattern dials in both 38mm and 41mm sizes. These pieces marry Montblanc’s adventurous spirit with cutting-edge precision.
Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels at Watches and Wonders 2025 celebrates the “Poetry of Time Under the Parisian Sky.” The maison’s Poetic Complications collection offers a sumptuous blend of mechanical mastery and lyrical design. From the enchanting Pont des Amoureux collection to the mesmerizing Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate, each piece unfurls a narrative of love and art. Extraordinary Objects like the Naissance de l’Amour automaton and Planétarium automaton evoke celestial rhythms and timeless romance. With innovative grisaille enamel and exquisite craftsmanship, Van Cleef & Arpels transforms time into art, reimagining its storied heritage with a tender, poetic heartbeat. This is a time-telling universe where love and time dance in perfect harmony.
Tag Heuer
Tag Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph celebrates an ‘80s icon with a refined 38mm case, upgraded sandblasted steel and DLC finishing and a cutting-edge Solargraph movement. Next, the Tag Heuer Carrera Day-Date returns in six stunning new models, merging timeless heritage with modern performance – a true success watch. And in a nod to motorsport, the bold Tag Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1, featuring a hand-painted oscillating weight and a 50 per cent ceramic/50 per cent sapphire case, captures the thrill of Grand Prix racing (Tag Heuer is the official timekeeper of this year’s Formula 1 competitions). Completing the lineup, the revamped Beads of Rice bracelet blends vintage sophistication with ergonomic innovation – all under the rallying cry, “Designed to Win.”
Cartier
Magic is at the heart of Cartier’s watchmaking vision. With an alchemist’s touch, Cartier transforms metal and stones into precious objects that defy time. The 2025 Watches & Wonders collection is a bold reimagining of the maison’s iconic creations. From the enlarged Tank Louis Cartier, powered by the revolutionary 1899 MC movement, to the digital elegance of the Tank à Guichets reinterpreted with the 9755 MC calibre, each timepiece exudes metamorphosis. The Tressage watch and Panthère de Cartier are sculptural masterpieces – hybrid architectures blending watchmaking with haute joaillerie. Cartier’s expert artisans conjure beauty that stirs emotions and redefines time, transforming tradition into an ever-evolving art form. A magical journey of innovation.
Rolex
Rolex reinvents its legacy with a suite of breakthrough designs that blend heritage and innovation. The new Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller stands as the culmination of over a century of mastery, crafted for those who build their own destinies. The GMT-Master II debuts its first ceramic dial on 18ct white gold, echoing vibrant green hues with unparalleled precision. Meanwhile, the Oyster Perpetual charms in muted lavender, sandy beige and fresh pistachio green, while the Perpetual 1908 in 18ct yellow gold dazzles with a supple, seven-piece link bracelet. The Datejust 31’s red ombré dial creates a mesmerising chiaroscuro and bold new dials elevate the Cosmograph Daytona, GMT-Master II and Sky-Dweller.
Bvlgari
Bvlgari makes its grand debut at Watches & Wonders 2025 with a temple of innovation that encapsulates its dual identity as both jeweller and watchmaker. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon shatters records once again, setting a 10th world record for ultra-thin precision. In a stunning display of Italian ingenuity and Swiss craftsmanship, Bvlgari also reinvents its iconic Serpenti in the form of Aeterna – a bold, avant-garde jewelry creation that distills the serpent’s essence to its purest form. Embracing its Roman heritage with visionary design, Bvlgari charts a new course in timekeeping, forever transforming the art of horology.
Zenith
Zenith marks 160 years of horological mastery with a collection that redefines perfection. The new G.F.J. watch revives the legendary Calibre 135 – once the crown jewel of observatory chronometer competitions – now re-engineered for the modern era. This slender 39mm platinum timepiece blends vintage 1950s elegance with contemporary accents, epitomising Zenith’s relentless pursuit of precision. Equally striking, the Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy debuts in a unique shade developed over months. Featuring the Chronomaster Sport, Defy Skyline Chronograph and Pilot Chronograph in exclusive limited editions of 160 pieces, Zenith seamlessly fuses heritage and innovation, heralding a new chapter in its storied legacy with excellence.
Top image: photography courtesy of Hublot.
