June 22, 2023 |
Grace Wales Bonner penned her SS24 collection as “an ode to long journeys and life missions”, letting her design hand be guided by the “unwavering spirit” of long-distance runners hailing from Ethiopia and Kenya – including Tamirat Tola and Yomif Kejelcha, who both walked in the show.
Aptly titled Marathon, the endurance of a lengthy sprint was translated into an increased focus on handcraft. Artisans from Addis Ababa were responsible for an intricate, woven Tibeb fabric, while Macrame netted vests and skirts came sprinkled with beads fashioned from Ghanian glass.
Clever collisions of pristine tailoring, produced by Savile Row’s Anderson and Sheppard, were met with playful cowhide vests, tunic shirts and the latest iteration of the namesake label’s ongoing collaboration with Adidas Originals. Particularly striking was a rain mac lined with an English check, knitted tracksuits in punchy hues and a trainer based on the shoe Haile Gebrselassie won the 2008 Berlin Marathon wearing. In Bonner’s words, it was a “celebration of soulful pursuits and inspired movement” – totally joyous and superbly done.
Photography by Christina Fragkou.
