September 14, 2019 |
“The set is a wasteland, it is a premonition of a future wipe out.” Okay, Vivienne Westwood. We see you. Skipping the catwalk format in place of a digital launch, the head of punk royalty just released the SS20 collection for her main line. And despite its (not so) slightly dystopian storyline, she managed to whip out another collection full of enthusiasm and positive spirit. An urge to change, as usual. Westwood might be the only designer with radical ideas of change that manages to consistently create out of a place of joy rather than frustration or anger. And there’s nothing wrong with being angry – there’s plenty of things happening in the world that justify that emotion. However, the Westwood way just seems to be more focused on the positivity of togetherness in the process of making a change – a sense of urgency that doesn’t alienate but instead encourages its audience to think.
So, what does that call for change look like for SS20? It’s all of Westwood’s greatest hits – fine tailoring, asymmetric shirting, jersey fabrics in graphic, colourful prints. The silhouettes are focused and part of the traditional ready-to-wear conversation. It’s far from minimalism, but it does feel like a restrained version of those mad punk days. The character – a rebel with a cause – is definitely there. But the radical message is in what they say, not what they wear. The wardrobe is fluid, functional and serves a purpose of getting attention while allowing its wearer to feel like they can take on the world.
Photographs by Hugo Comte @ The Art Board.
