April 4, 2023 |
Dame Vivienne Westwood may have been renowned as the “high priestess of punk” and a peerless savant with a sewing needle, but just as well as she could spark a rebellion she could summon swells of matrimonial ecstasy. In the ’70s, it would have been a bit far-fetched to have expected Westwood’s name and ‘bridal wear’ to crop up in the same sentence, but when she launched her inaugural bridal line in 1996, the orders came streaming in. Brides to be were soon clamouring to get their french manicured fingers on one of her exquisite creations, because in Vivienne Westwood, nuptials had never looked so slick.
For some brides-to-be who opt for a glimmering Westwood gown, it was the late designer’s unparalleled ability to flatter the female form that riveted their attention. Westwood understood women’s bodies, their contours and curves, channelling sensuality and sexiness not through fragility, but structure and power. For others, it was her signature subversive aesthetic that resonated when scheming out that special day rooted, so profoundly, in tradition. Weddings can be stuffy and archaic, and efficient in infantilising the bride and villainising her sexuality. But Westwood deposed this. In any case, it would signify two people drawing a circle in the sand and saying, ‘’till death do us part’, while swathed in her deft draping and incredibly crafted corsetry.
Vivienne Westwood’s bridal offering for 2023 is split into two capsule collections: made-to-order and bespoke. From the night sky the brand found inspiration, echoing the shapes, shades and celestial explosions of the cosmos. Ethereal trains, capes and long line boleros orbit each exacting silhouette. There are 12 transformative made-to-order options, all of which are sustainably made in England with recycled sequins and polyester, and responsibly sourced viscose and acetate. Even the linings of the dresses are made with materials left over from previous seasons.
The Astral gown is a sinuous ensemble with a sweeping neckline and ruched full-length sleeves, and comes in a silvery white swathe or an emerald green. In a heavy silk satin, the Comet mini dress, features an asymmetric cascading train that’s completely adaptable: it can be bustled up or worn over the shoulders and belted at the waist. A personal favourite, the Auroras are a pair of corseted mini frocks coming in either organza lace over gazar or recycled taffeta. Other gowns include the Eclipse, the Galaxy and Galaxy Cape, the Minerva, the Nebula, the Luna and the Nova Cora (available in a rich red) which is poised in full length or mini versions and has an optional Diva Train.
Of the bespoke bridal collection, there are nine sublime gowns, each with its own distinct celestial allusion. A contemporary bias-cut dress in lurex crepe with a waspie corset is named the Luminara. It’s a slinky, illustrious number with an underbust corset that’s embroidered with crystals and silver thread in a classic love lace pattern. The Interstellar column gown is like an enigma; orbiting a netted and corseted silhouette, with an asymmetric sweetheart neckline, it flows down to a dramatic four-metre Watteau train all in a striking embroidered metallic silver lace on tulle. Evolving from the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood AW23 collection, the Angelica Mini in a delicate guipure lace and the Angelica Cloud in multi-layered tulle, are both bespoke bridal developments with statement spiral sleeves and ultra-feminine, corseted figures. Dipped in iridescent blush pinks and golds, the Cassiopeia is an indelibly regal number with bulbous Juliet sleeves, a high neckline and delicate pearl appliquès strung across its lacy construction. The Stella, Supernova, Moonlight and Lyra account for the rest, each an astonishing art piece in their own right.
Imbued with so much romance, these delectable Vivienne Westwood wedding gowns are the only thing you’ll want to have and to hold, to love and to cherish from this day forward for better or for worse. All you have to do is say is Yes! to the dress.
Photography courtesy of Vivienne Westwood.
