March 4, 2025 |
Marking one decade of unadulterated quirkiness, Vaquera sent a supersized AW25 offering stomping into Paris yesterday. Co-creative directors Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee were reflecting on their New York roots whilst anticipating their upcoming move to the French capital (they plan to relocate in June), resulting in a considered offering that artfully balanced past inspirations with future aspirations.
With a focus on wearability, silhouettes – inspired by 1920s and ‘80s Americana – were oversized and exaggerated from lapels and belts to colossal faux fur coats and bulbous taffeta pouf dresses (adding pops of pink and white to the otherwise muted line-up) – almost everything was blown up to cartoonish proportions. Gargantuan pearl necklaces, for example, were slung over entire outfits, commanding attention and adding a touch of antiquated opulence. In that same vein, a mid-century-style brassiere looked as if it’d been constructed for a giant, and was worn with the model’s head through the arm strap and the cups careening off the body like a fluid tunic as opposed to a piece of lingerie.
Elsewhere chunky knitwear, painted white, and trench coats with similar brushed-on effects added texture and depth. Leather pieces appeared in black or cracked dark grey adding a rugged edge, while faux fur packed a punch in lavish black and leopard prints.
Then came the collaborations; most notably a link-up with the Andy Warhol Foundation which featured Marilyn Monroe prints on denim, and D’Heygere for jewellery, which presented huge heart-shaped pendants and rings. On feet, knee-high baggy boots with concealed wedges were created in partnership with Converse.
Demonstrating a matured confidence that embraced accessibility without sacrificing the brand’s avant-garde essence, Vaquera AW25 crafted a narrative of future nostalgia, honouring its designers’ longstanding fascination with the American Dream while also looking ahead to new horizons.
Photography courtesy of Vaquera.
