September 26, 2022 |
The GmbH boys are back at Trussardi for their sophomore outing and frankly, it’s a step-up from their last. This season, creative directors Benjamin A. Huseby and Serhat Işık, in their excavation of the Trussardi archive, viewed history as non-linear and were inspired by the posture of magic amongst us. Once inseparable from the art of natural healing – chiefly in the hands of women – magic would be eradicated through the brutal and unwarranted execution of magic-practitioners during what were called “witch trials”. This began in the Early Modern Period, and by the time the Industrial Age came crashing in, men had commodified magic into what we know now as modern medicine and our connection to nature was lost.
Guided by this, Huseby and Işık discovered the seminal work of Silvia Federici, Caliban and The Witch, which describes how in our aim to control nature, the irrationality of magic had to be suppressed: “The witch-hunt deepened the divisions between women and men… and destroyed a universe of practices, beliefs, and social subjects,” Frederici wrote. “The world has to be ‘disenchanted’ in order to be dominated.” This prompted the pair to beg the question: “How can we bring a sense of enchantment back to our world? And how can the distant past feel relevant for the present?”
The result? Reflected in the tarnished mirrors of the gilded Baroque salon of Palazzo Clerici, a co-ed cast came stomping, swathed in liquid-jersey dresses with twisted necklines and cascading hemlines, billowing satin trousers, boxy faux-croc embossed bombers and brushed buffalo-effect leather jackets with sloped-shoulders. The twosome turned to denim too – a signature of the maison – offering fitted, multi-pocket short-shorts and ’80s-style sculptural cinched silhouettes treated with detailed seams, cut-outs and couture finishes. The new Trussardi is tremendous.
Photography courtesy of Trussardi.
