February 17, 2024 |
The room was packed. Benches were filled, stairways were clustered with students and the neighbouring bar, which had only a glass wall separating it from the runway, saw onlookers press their faces up against it to get a good look. This buzzy atmosphere set the stage for the CSM MA showcase.
A remarkable display of innovation and creativity, here we select our 10 standout collections from the fresh faced talents who are sure to shape fashion’s future.
Joshua Ewusie
A Chanel and BFC scholar, Joshua Ewusie’s MA collection included a hefty black coat sporting a spool-like structure on its left side, a silvery mini dress with red and black tassels hanging from the neck and a chunky leather bomber, prepped and primed to dress fashion darlings of tomorrow.
Lovro Lukic
Utilising vintage and second-hand fabrics to create his faux fur-lined creations, Lovro Lukic played with shape and material with a playful whimsy, overlaying cascading peplums onto ‘80s-style skirts. The prints were bright and garish, but complimented each other well, making for a collection that was both exciting and sophisticated.
Henri Hebrard
Henri Hebrard‘s collection featured slick silhouettes, all in a muted palette of brown, beige, and navy. Pops of green and dramatic, ear-grazing collars added surprise flourishes to the otherwise understated elegance he presented on the runway.
Thora Stefansdottir
The designs Thora Stefansdottir sent down the runway were reminiscent of what would be worn in a futuristic fairyland. Gathered fabric and structured swirls showed the designer’s knowledge of construction, whilst low-hanging silhouettes exuded an effortlessly cool energy.
Traiceline Pratt
Traiceline Pratt said go big or go home with his MA collection. Sending an array of oversized coats and jackets down the catwalk sporting hefty faux fur hoods that spilt over shoulders, Pratt’s collection could easily hit shop floors tomorrow. Having been awarded a prestigious £5000 bursary from Dr. Martens to support his creative development, we’re clearly not the only ones who think he’s a star in the making.
Zhuoran Liu
Inspired by his studies of sculptures, Zhuoran Liu’s spikey silhouettes were a sight to behold. Focusing on a more muted palette of blacks and greys, the young designer accessorised his looks with a series of thorn-embellished helmets.
Dhruv Bandil
Basing his collection on archaeological sites found in the Indian countryside and statues that represented female power, Dhruv Bandil’s MA collection earned him the prestigious L’Oreal Professionnel Creative Prize for exceptional talent, as selected by Katie Grand. Brightly coloured and boldly shaped, Bandil’s collection was truly joyous.
Alvaro Mars
Spanish designer Alvaro Mars brought drama to the runway with puff-ball skirts layered over black blazers and sheer, polka-dot gowns, complementing each look with a heel that had been spliced in half and bent upwards.
Maximilian Raynor
Entitled ‘Manor for Heaven’, Maximilian Raynor’s offering was deliciously dramatic and another clear standout for team 10. An LVMH scholar, Raynor’s wonderfully woven collection had far-pointing collars, tight-fitted checkered bonnets and a pair of bell-decorated red and black wings.
Jonathan Ferris
BFC scholar Jonathan Ferris’ MA menswear collection was delightfully creepy. Sending his models down the runway in identical bald and bearded masks, the young designer took oversized shirts and ties and gave them a seedy makeover. With long, brunette locks growing out the back of shirts and a pair of furry, brown trousers, Ferris’ collection left a lasting impression.
Photography courtesy of CSM
