March 5, 2026 |
Sometimes you have to underline the point. Haider Ackermann, three collections in to his Tom Ford tenure, used his AW26 show to show what the brand stands for.
With Demna’s Gucci doubling down on Ford’s ’90s, heyday, the Tom Ford brand needs to put clear water between the two. So while Gucci does libidinous thirst trap dressing, Ackermann’s Tom Ford serves haute sensuality and unashamed luxury. (This is a brand where crocodile skin is fast becoming a signature).
Ackerman’s models strolled into a bright white space – a symbol the designer said of the need to face the world with honesty.
Tailoring is a hallmark of this house. The focus was firmly on cut-above suiting. For men classic pinstripe power suits were worn with pristine striped shirts (Patrick Bateman would have loved them), which with contrasting animal print or black leather collars – hinting at the wild side lurking in the Tom Ford psyche.
Ackermann’s models don’t walk, they prowl, projecting big cat energy, they exude power and agency in their immaculately cut silhouettes.
For women low slung trousers were accentuated by skinny leather belts, fastened over one exposed hip bone. That look worked for men too – one of several vice versa ideas including zip-up suede blousons, pinstripe shirting and kinky, clear plastic mac’s and skirts trimmed with luxe crocodile and supple black leather.
Photography courtesy of Tom Ford.
