March 6, 2025 |
“It was like finding the last piece of a jigsaw and slotting it perfectly into place,” so said one ecstatic editor as they left the Tom Ford show. That final jigsaw piece was Haider Ackermann, whose debut collection moved Tom Ford, the brand, into a bold new era but one that fit perfectly with the seductive spirit of the house. From first look to last, it was gorgeously sophisticated, sexy, sleek, sensual and stunning. Tom Ford, the man, looked on approvingly from the front row as an army of almost alien-like models stalked past, wearing Ackermann’s 2025 take on the Tom Ford legacy.
Polished leather biker jackets, leather tees and coats, tailored close to the body, opened the show. They could have stepped out of an alluring Steven Klein ad campaign and signalled that the brands famous sensuality was still very much in play. Impeccable, precision cut suiting for men and women had a pristine sharpness and lean elegance – the look was lighter, leaner, perhaps than the Tom Ford of yore, but in spirit it was pure “Fucking Fabulous” Ford. The models with their blonde, slick-back hair and cherry red lips could have been auditioning as Bowie body doubles for The Hunger and The Man Who Fell To Earth.
Business-like pinstripes (worn with black leather, professional assassin gloves) gave way to an array of trouser suits in delicious colours – banana yellow with a bitter chocolate brown blouse, mint green with an ice white shirt and tie and ice pink with a pea green blouse. Ackermann is a master colourist.
There was sexuality in every piece. Low-riding bias-silk maxi skirts were cut low to reveal the hip bone whilst fluid jersey dresses were spliced to the top of the hip or open at the side to reveal the body beneath. Tucked into pockets were sunglasses and wallets. Coupled with the strong make-up look, it was a sign that Ackermann is looking at the brand in the round. Even the show space was scented with Tom Ford fragrance.
“Mr Tom Ford has been all about seduction. So I think if I seduce the crowd tonight then I’m on the right way,” said the designer. He didn’t just seduce them. He ravished them.
Photography courtesy of Tom Ford.
