September 17, 2024 |
“Clothes are never a commodity by themselves, they belong to an environment, expression and celebration of culture, a documentation of the influence of the past, today in the present,” said British-born Nigerian designer Tolu Coker in the show notes of her SS25 collection. She called it Olapeju, after her mother who was also her muse this season, as Coker sought to celebrate the “wealth of heritage, cultural capital and craftsmanship inherent in British-Nigerian identities and immigrant communities.” What resulted was a vibrant lineup of uber-chic looks manifesting as a vision of the swinging sixties and honouring the personal stories and roles of unsung matriarchs who shaped cultural communities at the time.
And so, always looking at clothing through a community-oriented, cultural lens, Coker transformed the show space into a ‘60s style family living room peppered with memories. The pictures framed on the walls memorialised the work of Coker’s late father Kayode Coker, and his photographs of North Kensington Estates’ immigrant life at a time when ‘no blacks, no dogs, no Irish’ signs lined the streets.
Also taking a page from the book of her mother’s timeless, personal style, and her immigration journey from Lagos to London, silhouettes were crisp and tailored with cinched in waists – in line with Yoruba sartorial codes – with a mid-century edge reminiscent of Jackie O. Elsewhere, there were upcycled A-line frocks with enlarged collars and matching colourblock twinsets created using reclaimed and deadstock textiles. Jodhpurs-style trousers and equestrian coats were worn with boots debuting an exciting, new Manolo Blahnik collab. Prints mimicked the retro wallpaper’s flamboyant patterns and the brand’s signature upcycled denim houndstooth jacquards, but rendered here, in supple pastels.
A heartfelt family affair, Tolu Coker is singing “welcome to the sixties.”
Photography courtesy of Tolu Coker.
