September 20, 2023 |
Tolu Coker’s debut catwalk show was a vibrant celebration of Yoruba culture. Entitled Irapada – meaning ‘redemption’ – the 30-look show explored the London-based designer’s cultural heritage, drawing on Nigeria’s Aladura Church to create a seamless fusion between modernity and tradition. Focusing largely on memorable headwear to convey her inspirations, the CSM-grad utilised braiding to create pieces that were both referential and distinct.
“The collection nods to different forms of empowerment and how women have translated that spirituality into their dress,” wrote the designer in her show notes. “My grandma is a great reference point and features heavily throughout the collection. She was a Muslim woman who married a Christian man, which is considered both in the religion and in culture, haram. That was a huge statement within my family.”
Revolving around relaxed tailoring, Coker also paid homage to the city of London, showcasing oversized blazers, boxy shirts and matching co-ords to draw in fans of effortless cool. A modern take on ‘Sunday Best’, Coker champions the multidimensional nature of identity and the impact that can have on personal style. Seeing her work as an opportunity to campaign for significant conversations and societal awareness, Coker included a large range of pre-loved fabrics – such as deconstructed denim – to highlight the importance of environmental consciousness in fashion production.
The creative’s experimental approach seeped into all aspects of the show, which featured a home video of a traditional Yoruba naming ceremony and live percussion. An authentic exploration of personal experience, Tolu Coker’s first stint at London Fashion week has firmly placed her on the map.
Photographs courtesy of Tolu Coker
