March 4, 2019 |
What will Thom Browne do next? His shows have become extensions of his thought process and creative brain. We’ve had ‘60s trips to bonkers-land complete with watering-can-touting elves. We’ve had cling-film wrapped models, and huge planets floating above our heads.
Yesterday afternoon, Browne recreated an office from the 1980s, on the centre floor at the Beaux Arts in Paris. His models walked around in a square, then entered the “office”. Inside the office were tables and typewriters, and a table lamp. Horizontal shades on the office window gave us half a view. The models started to type.
Then the show began, proper: long Argyle-knit dresses with degradé shading, checked and long, wool coats and smart “office-style” skirts. Then on came his cropped blazers with white contrast-trim pockets and big buckle “business bags” with immaculate gold hardware. Browne’s woman is office-based this autumn. Elegant, grey flannel pants with razor-sharp pleats – a repeat buy for his customers – were beautifully pitched. It became increasingly complex and tailored when Browne fused a coat to a skirt and shirt and tie with collar: this formed a dress and a clever game of Trompe-l’œil. Thom Browne is a master tailor.
Photographs by Jason-Lloyd Evans.
