April 3, 2023 |
Offering exceptional solutions for everyday living, Lucas Ossendrijver’s sophomore collection for Theory is oh-so effortless. A dynamic city-set assortment designed for the vicissitudes of modern life, it’s less of a collection and more of a capsule wardrobe created with the metropolitan in mind. Under Theory Project – a space to elevate the brand through collaborations with top talents – the visionary, ex Lanvin designer’s co-ed capsule focusses on refined elegance and day-to-day sartorial solutions. “In the way [the clothes are] worn, the combinations are sometimes quite ‘accidental’, as if they’re thrown on and not thought through or forced,” he says in an interview. “It gives the collection an easy and approachable attitude, and it shows a lot of possibilities in the way you can wear the pieces and make them your own.” In short, it’s about “providing options”, according to the Dutch designer.
Last time, Ossendrijver sought inspiration in the city of New York; its hurried hustle and bustle, its arduous work/life balance and buzzy happenings. He expands on the Big Apple’s dynamic energy this spring/summer 2023 season, channelling the vivacity coursing throughout New York into fluid fabrics with utilitarian details and peppy custom prints, each garment imbued with the vigour of the city’s ceaseless motion. “This season I felt like making the collection more dynamic somehow. I thought about movement and how to incorporate sportswear without it being overly active – to blur those boundaries, instead,” he says. “I really like the idea of flexibility too, clothes that are versatile; pieces you can wear for different occasions and situations. And I’ve always loved the spaces ‘in between’, where things aren’t always 100 percent clear or linear; between formal and casual, tailored and sportswear, masculine or feminine.”
So, coordinating men’s and women’s versions of a single style, such as the women’s cropped bomber which reinterprets the men’s parka with “Gore-Tex backed, taped seams, and an amazing sleeve construction done with darts”, a sort of mirror-effect springs into existence. “Especially in this collection there’s a lot of cross-over between boys’ and girls’ clothes,” the designer says. “The same fabrics, the same constructions and colours – just the proportions are slightly different.”
Designed directly on the models, rather than on paper, the capsule offers impeccable, classic silhouettes – without the stodgy stiffness – throughout outerwear, smart suiting and relaxed dresses. “I hardly ever draw clothes. I have to see them on a body, and in movement,” Ossendrijver explains. All the clothes come in sprightly spring tones from lilac to cognac, and muted grey to earthy green with pops of blue, violet, bubbly amber and ruby red manoeuvred into the mix. One of Ossendrijver’s favourite items is the double-hemmed men’s t-shirt. “It has the ease of a t-shirt but it looks a bit more elevated because of the shirt hem,” he says. “I think it’s a nice twist.” Another standout is the women’s shirt with short bell-shaped sleeves. Cut in one piece with the body, it comes in a men’s shirting stripe and takes on a sharp and precise silhouette.
For the very first time, Theory introduces a leisurely low top sneaker. Honing in on the tension between functional and noble materials, it further reinforces Ossendrijver’s juxtaposition of feminine and masculine, coming in a sinuous leather and suede construction. Finished with bespoke rubberized soles geared towards urban exploration and tipped with reflective materials, these sneaks will have you stepping into the city in style. “This season we introduce the first Theory Project sneaker, and I’m very proud of it. It’s a sporty, unisex style that’s… beautifully done and very comfortable,” he explains. “It really stands on its own and has a distinct style, but is still easy to wear and combine.” Paired with slim mens trousers or tailored, over-the-knee bermuda shorts with an extra pleat, it “makes the looks feel more grounded and real.”
“I hope people appreciate the clothes and recognise the workmanship that is put in! There’s a lot of attention to detail,” Ossendrijver declares. “In the end I just hope that [people] enjoy wearing the pieces! That’s always the biggest compliment: seeing somebody wearing the pieces you designed.”
Photography by David Sims. Shop here.
