February 17, 2025 |
Since putting the seal on his eponymous label in 2012, Beijing-based menswear designer Sean Suen has been shaping contemporary fashion with a distinctive blend of precision, structure and artistic expression. Describing his design language as “an Eastern aesthetic dialogue with Western structures,” his work is a continuous exploration of balance – embracing both tradition and modernity, craftsmanship and innovation. And though his penchant for crafting clothes that challenge tradition is evident, Suen’s journey into fashion began elsewhere – in fine art and graphic design. It was through these disciplines that his “long-standing passion for fashion” was reignited, leading him to transition from the two-dimensional realm of design to the three-dimensional world of fashion.
“Through this process, I discovered the fascinating, multi-dimensional space that can be built between people and clothing,” Suen says, before going on to describe how this disciplinary crossover lends itself to his clothing creation. “Every step of my journey has provided abundant nourishment for my creative work. My experience in fine art and graphic design serves as the cornerstone of my creative work today. I see the process of fashion design as the creation of a dialogue-driven space. No space can exist without the precise use of points, lines and surfaces – they define the silhouette, structure, details and rhythm of a garment. Additionally, the colour theory I learned from fine art and graphic design plays a crucial role in my choices of materials, colours and patterns in fashion,” he says. “I firmly believe that different design disciplines influence and blend into each other”.
SS25
Working methodically and intuitively, Suen describes his creative process as this: “Perceiving the present → extracting inspiration → delving into history → creative transformation → design expression.” So, with the zeitgeist in mind, his inspirations are often drawn from art, cinema and architecture, but just as much from his own surroundings. Growing up in Beijing – a city bubbling over with historical landmarks, cultural heritage and dynamic intersections between East and West – has deeply informed his creative output. “Beijing is a city full of charm and rich cultural heritage. It has a long history, with numerous historical landmarks and captivating intangible cultural treasures such as Peking Opera. As the capital of China, it also serves as a key hub for cultural exchange between China and the world, where diverse cultures collide, communicate, and merge,” says Suen. “I draw a great deal of inspiration and material from its deep cultural roots. This also fuels my interest in exploring the intersection of Eastern and Western aesthetics, which gradually shaped the unique style of the Sean Suen brand.”
This fusion materialises in his designs through experimental tailoring and unconventional garment construction. He has used ties as sashes, allowed fringing to cascade over suit trousers and even grouped a dozen ties together to create a plastron (a large pad worn by a fencer to protect the chest) finished with tassels. Strands of pearls – used as closures or accessories like ties – add an unexpected softness to his work, aligning with the growing appetite for jewellery in menswear. It’s a balance of minimalism and innovation – think sharp, structured outerwear paired with fluid, unexpected details.
Suen’s collections often explore notions of gender as well as the sartorial archetypes of both the West and the East, in particular, how modern ideals of masculinity and virility are driven by Western aesthetics and sartorialism. According to his website, his work serves as an “ode to traditional constructs of structures, materials and composition, all in search of future masculinity.”
SS24
A long-term contributor to the Paris Fashion Week calendar, Suen has also established himself as a designer with a sharp focus on outerwear. Drawing inspiration from Peking Opera master Mei Lanfang, his asymmetrical draping blazers unveiled as part of the SS25 collection for example, displayed a modern twist on classic tailoring with uneven drapes and paneled two-tone construction. Before that, in his spring 2024 collection, Suen introduced a striking double-breasted jacket adorned with silver bells serving as functional buttons. This design element added a unique auditory and visual dimension to the garment, exemplifying his creative approach to traditional menswear. Then, in his AW24 collection, Suen presented suit coats featuring extra buttons that allowed for rearrangement, creating new folds and asymmetrical lines. “Outerwear is the first layer people present in their daily styling – it is a key piece that showcases personal style and taste. Its inherent volume naturally allows for a broader design space,” says Suen. “When designing outerwear, I pay special attention to unique silhouettes and cuts, as well as high-quality materials and details. I view the process as building a bridge – one that instantly connects and communicates with the wearer.”
Unveiled during Paris Fashion Week Men’s in January, Suen’s latest collection drew inspiration from the storied Tea Horse Road – an ancient trade route through the mountains of Qinghai-Tibet and the Yunnan-Guizhou plateaus. Just over two feet wide in some places, the road was carved out by human footsteps and served as a vital cultural and economic link between Tibet, southwestern China, and neighboring Asian regions. “For centuries, it facilitated cultural exchanges between different ethnic groups,” Suen says. “This season, we used fashion as a language to reinterpret the spirit of this ancient road and the aesthetics of multiple ethnic cultures, creating a bridge that transcends time and space, linking the past and the future.”
AW25
The collection seamlessly blended natural materials – such as wool and leather, which have long been staples of the region – with modern technological fabrics, ensuring both functionality and comfort. The result was a rugged yet refined look that reflected the enduring spirit of the ancient road while offering a vision for the future of fashion and fine living.
Outerwear made a statement there too. Merging Eastern and Western design elements, the duffle/Everest parka featured a hybrid silhouette, oversized hood and intricate fastenings, combining traditional duffle coat features with high-altitude parka functionality.
For now, Suen remains focused on evolution – continuing to redefine his craft and refine his creative process. “I’m always looking at ways to improve, to challenge my own weaknesses,” he says. With a sharp eye for detail and a deep respect for both history and innovation, Sean Suen’s journey is one of continuous transformation – an ever-evolving dialogue between past and future, tradition and reinvention.
Photography courtesy of Sean Suen.
Sean Suen
