March 3, 2025 |
The Chinese-born designer Susan Fang got her big moment in Milan as part of Dolce & Gabbana’s support programme for young designers. Every season, on behalf of the brand, the stylist Katie Grand chooses a new talent, who is then given a show on the schedule of Milan fashion Week styled by Grand, as well as access to the Dolce and Gabbana archive, design studio space and seamstresses. Fang follows the likes of London-based designer Feben, Karoline Vitto, as well as Tomo Koizumi, Matty Bovan and Miss Sohee into the support programme.
To have that clout behind you adds up to a big moment for any young talent. Fang, a Central Saint Martins graduate, who has shown at Shanghai Fashion Week, seized her moment. She sent out a collection that brought together elements of Italian craft and Chinese culture and showcased her all of her quirky charm – if Fang had a spirit animal it would be a rainbow unicorn.
She took inspiration from the Dolce & Gabbana archives, pulling lace, details and silhouettes from the late nineties and incorporating them into her collection. A sweeping swing coat came from an archive silhouette, but was hand-painted with scenes from the Chinese countryside by Fang’s artist mother. The archive also inspired the 3D sequin flowers which encrusted cute little mini skirts and dresses and a series of holographic sequin looks. An archival floral lace design was reinterpreted in laser cut organza and the designer transposed her painterly prints onto a classic D&G lingerie dress. She crossed Chinese imperial jewellery with the ornate headbands worn in the Sicilian court.
Fang is known for her whimsical approach and love of fractals and mathematical patterns. The designer opened with 3D assemblage, crystal and beaded flower dresses, which took craftswomen in her native China three months to make and then apply to a 3D printed base. Bringing technology and craftsmanship together is a Fang signature. As is the feel-good factor. Fang, who got married a few weeks ago also showed her own rainbow hued tulle gown. Summing up her colourful collection, the designer said it was about the pursuit of happiness. It certainly put a smile on our faces.
Photography courtesy of Susan Fang.
