March 5, 2026 |
It’s the Year of the Horse – the fire horse – and Stella McCartney is celebrating. At Le Grand Manège Jean Caucanas in Paris – dirt floors, a handler leading a string of horses and all – the designer unveiled her AW26 collection, the room awash with a settled energy, somewhat earthy and unexpectedly calm.
French horse whisperer and rescuer Jean-Francois Pignon returned to the runway, leading on from McCartney’s AW23 show which then saw seven Camargue steeds galloping and rolling around to Depeche Mode’s Personal Jesus. This time around about a dozen black or white horses cantered in formation, at times dropping to the ground to perform impressive rolls, sparking a series of yips and cheers from the fash pack. It was a spectacle with substance – a reminder of McCartney’s long-held commitment to animal welfare and her refusal to use leather, fur or skins since launching her brand in 2001.
The clothes traced her story, from childhood to Savile Row beginnings to the woman she designs for now. Tailoring was key – single and double-breasted jackets in responsible wool, cut with strong shoulders and defined waists. Fisherman ribbed knits nodded to her Scottish upbringing, reworked with padded stitches and semi-sheer wool-silk blends. Slouchy compact ribbed dresses and cropped polos balanced masculine and feminine with ease.
A palette of primaries and rust was grounded by camel, chocolate and grey. There were flashes of vintage lace and moiré, recycled denim with cargo zips and lead-free crystals, equestrian detials, preppy striped polos and a returning ‘My Dad Is A Rockstar’ tank. At 93 per cent sustainable materials, it felt like a celebration of freedom – personal, ethical and hard won. Horse girls unite.
Photography Courtesy of Stella McCartney.
