Tommy Hilfiger: Ready-to-wear SS20
Who knew Sunday nights can be so much fun? That usual feeling of dread of heading into yet another week of madness was swapped for bobbing heads to a compilation of greatest Brit-pop hits and euphoria caused by seeing generations
Ryan Lo: Ready-to-wear SS20
Ryan Lo is having a red carpet moment. More and more, it's celebrities who turn to the Hong Kong-born, London-based fashion designers for sartorial options in their public appearances. In the one-off TV revival of 4 Weddings and a Funeral, it
Mary Katrantzou: Ready-To-Wear SS20
The setting couldn’t have been more spectacular. Mary Katrantzou showed her SS20 collection at The Temple of Poseidon, high on cliffs of Cape Sounion, just outside Athens. Today it’s one of the most precious archaeological sites in Greece. In the
Symonds Pearmain: Ready-to-wear SS20
While some designers poetically laud about "their woman" being aspirational with her incredibly aloof character and semi-mystical aura, Max Pearmain and Anthony Symonds focus on the reality of things. The character they dress is a neurotic woman on the run,
Louis Vuitton: Ready-To-Wear SS20
With an eerie music video of the British artist Sophie, her cheekbones artificially enhanced to alien-like proportions, the show began. The film formed a vast moving backdrop to the bare plywood set (easier to recycle according to Vuitton bods). Time
Miu Miu: Ready-To-Wear SS20
There’s always a naughty schoolgirl at the heart of Miu Miu - the kind that plays truant but never gets caught. This season the label focused on that core girl playing with school uniform pinafores but sassing them up with an
Chanel: Ready-To-Wear SS20
It would be a shame if the only conversation about the Chanel show was of the rogue YouTube comedienne who invaded the catwalk as a prank – and was firmly escorted of the stage by supermodel turned bouncer Gigi Hadid.
Alexander McQueen: Ready-To-Wear SS20
Sarah Burton talked of stripping things back to the toile, and of clarity and paring things down. So her show started with a model striding the bare boards of her set wearing the most divine white linen dress: full sleeves,
Stella McCartney: Ready-To-Wear SS20
From Extinction Rebellion picketing shows in London to Gucci going carbon neutral, this fashion season has been marked by a big conversation around sustainability. What is best fashion practice in an overheating world? The industry has just woken up to
Sacai: Ready-To-Wear SS20
Why find inspiration in one specific place when you can take the whole world as your main point of reference? Battling chaos of our society with beauty, Chitose Abe of Sacai decided to take a worldly approach to her SS20
Balenciaga: Ready-To-Wear SS20
It wasn’t a fashion show, it was a total sensory experience. In a vast film studio on then outskirts of Paris Demna Gvasalia staged an immersive happening. We passed from the grey Paris morning through a sensory cleansing, blackout box
Thom Browne: Ready-To-Wear SS20
Billy Porter might have won the London Fashion Week street style game, but Marie Antoinette seems to be the accidental icon of the SS20 season. At Westwood and Bovan, bustles and panniers have part of the conversations for seasons. But
Givenchy: Ready-To-Wear SS20
The clue to the big story for Givenchy's Clare Waight Kellerwas on the invitation: a swatch of frayed denim. The designer’s SS20 collection featured several pieces in upcycled denim. Denim hot pants tailored coats, boyfriend jeans and maxi skirts brought
Valentino: Ready-To-Wear SS20
If Valentino's Pierpaolo Piccioli has a signature it is for making divine clothes with the power to transport the wearer (and the watcher). He makes women look breathtakingly beautiful. Adut Akech, with gold crystal Cleopatra eyeliner (courtesy of the incredible
Hermès: Ready-To-Wear SS20
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s show notes talked about replacing a quest for perfection with a quest for movement and her collection was full of supple pieces crafted for an active life. Utility and workwear played a big part. The aprons worn by