Lutz Huelle: Ready-to-wear SS17
There’s a bit of a shoulder situation going on in Lutz Huelle’s SS17 collection. A bit might actually be an understatement. There’s some shoulder going on and it’s a statement making shoulder. Which makes sense given the press notes, and
Christian Dior: Ready-to-wear SS17
We should all be feminists. That was the message of Maria Chiuri Grazia’s debut outing for the house of Christian Dior. A message that was, handily, also printed upon a t-shirt, just in case you forgot. It was a fitting
Issey Miyake: Ready-to-wear SS17
Graphic silhouettes, angular lines and geometric prints were beautifully softened with use of slouchy pleated pieces and clever use of colour - tones of powdery pinks, pale beige and minty greens and blues meant the sharp shapes were never severe.
Loewe: Ready-to-wear SS17
"Luke, I am you father". Okay, so maybe not. But that first look at Loewe's SS17 show today - that cream coloured smock thing with big puffy sleeves for some reason brings to mind Star Wars. Blame it on the early
Undercover: Ready-to-wear SS17
Jun Takahashi is feeling the jazzy vibes at Undercover SS17. Quite literally. So apparent, it was more a tribute to jazz. We sat in Hotel Salomon de Rothschild, under chandeliers as Gershwin's composed tunes, Miles Davis and Art Farmer played.
Chalayan: Ready-to-wear SS17
Hussein Chalayan is like a mad scientist. And he's been in his lab, creating the future. An army of Chalayans, genetically engineered humans. Their clothing emblematic of their station in life, each with their own program. The Chalayan machine includes
Isabel Marant: Ready-to-wear SS17
Isabel Marant's cult are the "you can't sit with us" type of girls. Anna Ewers, Cat McNeil and Julia Nobis type boss ass bitches. They don't look rough and tough. That's just the attitude. Romantic florals and asymmetrical ruffles are
Rick Owens: Ready-to-wear SS17
Rick Owens was Grecian in drape. There was a regal element to it in the colour and shape, the abundance of fabric suggesting wealth. It feels almost monastic. Can we say it’s like they are being wrapped for a baptism? Preparing
Balmain: Ready-to-wear SS17
If you've read the press notes, you'll probably find that what we're about to say has little to do with them, but then we didn't read then, because we were far too busy using our eyes for the more important
Paco Rabanne: Ready-to-wear SS17
FUTURE SEX SPORT. These were notes we scribbled down as we watched Julien Dossena's really rather fabulous spring offering for Paco Rabanne yesterday. Future and sex mostly because they were written across the opening look (upon a t-shirt collaboration with Peter Saville)
Ann Demeulemeester: Ready-to-wear SS17
Ann Demeulemeester's coven was out to play. Coven of the night. Leonard Cohen’s voice vibrated though the room, “Magnified, sanctified, be thy holy name, Vilified, crucified, in the human frame. A million candles burning for the help that never came.
Chloé: Ready-to-wear SS17
"It's kind of an innocent sexiness," Clare Waight Keller told us backstage after the Chloé Spring Summer 2017 show. The perfect summation of the collection. The Chloé girl usually feels as though she is in a state of wanderlust, looking
Wanda Nylon: Ready-to-wear SS17
"I don't care. I am who I am, take me as I am," Johanna Senyk told us backstage at Wanda Nylon. You tell 'em. Woman in fabric. That was the motto for Spring Summer 2017. "I always play with fabric,
Fenty x Puma: Ready-to-wear SS17
Rihanna. Riri. Badgal Riri. And now, Fenty. Well, kind of, because Fenty is, and has always been, for that matter, Rihanna’s surname, and is now her chosen moniker in her collaboration with Puma, Fenty x Puma. But what the fuck
Rochas: Ready-to-wear SS17
As you might know, we fashion folk are often found out and about cloaked in various shades of black. A ‘pop of colour’ usually comes in the form of navy. “I don’t do colour!” Phoebe often wails when presented with