Noir Kei Ninomiya: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Kei Ninomiya has cemented his place in the Paris schedule as one of the “golden tickets”. His presentations, always considered and beautiful, have that “something else”; they feed the creative brain. It’s the clothes that do it, of course, but the
Comme des Garçons: Ready-To-Wear AW19
For autumn, nipped and contorted silhouettes and very strange shapes: shall we call it “bodytecture”? It’s what Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons does best - she is the best. The show got stranger and more beautiful: rounded and bulbous
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Using a series of elaborate shoulders and impressive techniques to create extraordinary shapes, Vivienne Westwood’s autumn collection reminds us of the fact that, Vivienne is boss. And it’s to her unparalleled archive, Westwood and her designer husband Andreas Kronthaler turned, just, for their
Junya Watanabe: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Cross Kawaii with Guns ‘n’ Roses, meld prairie dresses with Mod parkas. Junya Watanabe took this contrarian cocktail approach for his AW19 show. It was a mash-up collection that brought opposing fashion and music tribes together. The resulting series of
Celine: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Volte face. Celine impresario, Hedi Slimane has turned from the skinny young rock chicks of his debut collection to a bourgeois woman who is hooked on classics. Hedi wormholed back to a time before Celine was fashion catnip. Before Phoebe, before
Balmain: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Don’t let his puppyish energy and babyfaced good looks fool you. Olivier is one of the most seasoned creative directors in fashion. He’s headed Balmain for almost 9 years (which in the time of 3 year contracts and designer revolving doors
Issey Miyake: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Construction and reconstruction successfully run through with the avante-grade. At yesterday's beautifully colourful Issey Miyake show in the centre of Paris: a riot of brights separates and dresses in tech-y new-style fabrics were the starting point for designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae’s autumn
Loewe: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Mr Jonathan Anderson is intent on making Loewe the home of interesting clothes. His collections are deeply thought through, crafted and considered. They speak to a woman who understands aesthetics – she’s no stranger to the gallery for work or pleasure. She wants to
Off-White: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Do you feel the need for speed? Virgil Abloh does, channeling the petrol head world of speedway into his Off-White show. If you are looking for a barometer of modern taste, this is it. Before the show Abloh talked of his own shift
Rick Owens: Ready-To-Wear AW19
It was never going to be a cupcakes and candy kind of show. Rick Owens set out his vision, make-up designed by the cult body modification artist Salvia and inspiration taken from an architect of seventies glam rock, Larry LeGaspi, who designed costumes for
Paco Rabanne: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Who’s making the coolest clothes in Paris? Julien Dossena is making a play for that title with his take on Paco Rabanne. His models slinked down the catwalk in Thirties goddess gowns, cut from silk or meticulously crafted in the house’s signature chainmail. They
Y/Project: Ready-To-Wear AW19
Glenn Martens is riding high. After a stellar outing as part of the last Pitti Uomo fair in Florence, the designer served us a twisted lesson in history at his Y/Project’s women’s show in Paris. Very few designers have as strong
Courrèges: Ready-To-Wear AW19
The future is now, and it’s looking quite fabulous. Or at least so it seems at Courrèges, where Yolanda Zobel is paving the way for communal sensuality. In her second collection for the heritage French fashion house, Zobel continued paying
Kenzo Present Their See-now-Buy-Now La Collection Memento No.4
Kenzo takes a refreshing approach to its fashion week slot. The house’s designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim look upon each catwalk show as an opportunity to create a bespoke fashion experience. The designers dedicated the show to the Kenzo La Collection
Marine Serre: Ready-To-Wear AW19
After only three on-schedule catwalk shows, Marine Serre's vision is as clear as today’s sunny day in Paris. Sporty, futuristic, empowering. The place where Serre comes from is the one of utter modernity – ideas she comes up with seem to be