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The signature micro accordion pleats of Issey Miyake have been quite spectacularly revived of late. Meaning many designers have references them - some subtly, some blatantly - in their own collections. That poses a challenge for Yoshiyuki Miyamae: how to

"Teutonic" was Hussein Chalayan's title for his winter 2016 collection. It fits the rigorous nature of Chalayan's aesthetic - German techno, Burda patterns, Autobahns, a bit of Kraftwerk. Chalayan's clothes are generally strict and sharp, decidedly Teutonic in themselves, even

Christian Dior has something very few houses can boast of: immediately-recognisable, eternally distinguishable house codes. Femininity, flowers, the curvaceous Bar silhouette of padded hips, emphasised bust and cinched waist. Those were the ideas Dior team, lead by Serge Ruffieux and

We all want to be cool, right? That's the choice world Jonathan Anderson used to describe his winter Loewe collection. Cool for cats - like the pendants hung around models' necks, resemble the porcelain good luck charm waving breed in

It must be wonderful being an Ann Demeulemeester girl. We imagine it’s a bit like like that scene in Spice World, where Victoria “Posh Spice” Adams (now obvs Beckham) questions if she’s going to wear the little black Gucci dress,

Post apocalyptic couture under a thatch of unruly hair. It's the Rick Owens way. He called this collection Mastodon and alluded, as he did back in January's menswear season, to an end-of-the-world type scenario where man goes the way of

Vetements is kind of like a fashion religion right now. Or maybe a cult. They took over the American Cathedral in Paris to show their winter collection, opening with the brand's stylist Lotta Volka in a sliced-short choir girl ensemble

Madeleine Vionnet was one of the leading lights of pre-war Parisian haute couture. She changed the face of fashion, inventing the bias cut still beloved by celebrities for red carpet wear today. So the challenge at Vionnet is far less

The black-rimmed eyes of the Marchesa Casati, that dame de decadence whose ethereal figure and outrageous exploits haunted belle époque high society, stared out from each and every invite to Dries Van Noten’s show - hand painted by the artist

“Raw-core” was the word John Galliano came up with to describe his winter 2016 Margiela collection. And as everyone is looking to the raw, to the code and ideas Margiela originally devised -  unfinished hems, anti-luxury fabrics, oversized, undersized, distress

Is Anthony Vaccarello going to Saint Laurent? That's the big question - one we're not allowed to ask (and even if we did, the only answer was "no comment"). But it gave Anthony Vaccarello's always-energetic kick-start to Paris fashion week

There really is nothing better than a press release, especially when done well. Well there is, the actual collection. And the Bally AW16 collection was great. But the press release was equally great. Kind of a fashions in word form

We’d estimate a good 90% of Giorgio Armani’s winter 2016 collection consisted of trousers. Impeccably cut velvet ones, perfectly pitched tweedy ones, a few in flowing chiffon. He opened and closed with trousers - the closer under a billowing cape

Missoni is a label all about luxury and natty knits, which have become something of a synonym for luxe with comfort, a bit of stretch. A certain ease. Missoni are experts, and this season Angela Missoni revelled in her family

Military, Victorian and Samurai. What’ve they got in common? Well, in fashion terms, they all share a fierce bit of fabric manipulation, a love of sharp cuts, and a dose of embroidered pomp and circumstance. Oh, and they formed the