Namacheko: Menswear AW21
During this morning's Namacheko film, you could barely see any clothes. That's because the fuzzy, rapid-fire clip was shot in a gloomy space on 16mm film. Siblings Lezan and Dilan Lurr described this season's collection as "emerging from the bunker,
Wales Bonner: Menswear AW21
Today marked a closing chapter for Wales Bonner. AW21 was the final instalment to a triptych of collections that explored connections between Britain and the Caribbean. The journey began this time last year in London, with Lovers Rock – a
GmbH: Menswear AW21
GmbH is a label fed by real-life experience. The two founders – Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby – met on a Berlin dancefloor in 2015, and have since been making club-meets-corporate-meets-sex-meets-all-round-ace clobber that reflects the everyday lives of their clan
Dior: Menswear AW21
There’s a very masculine glamour to the pomp of ceremonial military uniforms and a flourish of subversion, too. The Beatles knew it when they borrowed from military regalia for their Sargent Pepper incarnation. And Kim Jones knows it too. Gold
Botter: Menswear AW21
This season, Botter swapped show notes for a manifesto. "We care about fashion, as the golden daughter of all arts. We care about nature, as the golden mother of all arts," it read. "Without nature, no arts, nothing. Without the
Boramy Viguier: Menswear AW21
On the surface, it's easy to dismiss Boramy Viguier's work as political. The emerging Parisian designer uses fashion as a vehicle for sheer fantasy. Why do your run-of-the-mill fashion show when you can create your own mythical worlds? These surreal lands
Rick Owens: Menswear AW21
It was a wardrobe for “barbaric contradictory times,” said Rick Owens of his AW21 men’s collection. Named Gethsemane after the garden that Jesus prayed in the night before the crucifixion, his show played out before a domed church in Venice.
Louis Vuitton: Menswear AW21
Since joining Louis Vuitton in 2018, Virgil Abloh has shown himself to be not only a great designer, but one of fashion's most prolific storytellers, too. After taking his SS21 collection for the house on a globe-trotting tour last year
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake: Menswear AW21
The click-clack of the pleating machine and a drumbeat provided the soundtrack for Homme Plissé Issey Miyake’s Never Change, Ever Change AW21 video. A choreographed group came into formation. The models were as disciplined as soldiers but they weren’t in
JW Anderson: Menswear AW21
A palette cleanser, a reality check, a bright new beginning. That’s how JW Anderson described his new men’s AW21 and women PF21 collections. But, let's be clear, when Anderson speaks of reality, he’s not envisaging anything humdrum. His reality is
Hed Mayner: Menswear AW21
This season, Israeli-born designer Hed Mayner was set on unpicking the tension between "the necessity of isolation and the desire to be seen." The designer thrives when working in juxtapositions. He navigates fashion through big volumes, grand shapes, yet there
John Alexander Skelton: Menswear AW21
The invitation for John Alexander Skelton’s AW21 collection was as old fashioned as they come. It came on a USB - remember those? - that housed both a film and a beautifully shot lookbook by Oscar Foster-Kane. The USB came
Magliano: Menswear AW21
It's the final day of the Milan menswear shows and young Milanese label Magliano ended things with a bang, a crash and a, err, an mmm
Prada: Menswear AW21
The first men’s outing for Prada’s co-designers allowed us to see more of how the unique partnership between Mrs Prada and Raf Simons works. Explaining the intention behind their collection in a post-show Q&A session with fashion students, they reflected
Etro: Menswear AW21
Beams of glorious colour flooded the cathedral-like Etro show space. The models strode through the light wearing clothes designed for better times. There was an innate optimism in Kean Etro’s vision for AW21. He showed us a not too distant