Issey Miyake Men: Menswear AW17
Yusuke Takahashi, the head honcho at the house of Issey Miyake, is obsessed with surface. Thats’ not a bad thing: after all, the serrated surfaces of Miyake’s pleasing pleats are the houses leitmotif and bread-and-butter, and have been referenced on
Haider Ackermann: Menswear AW17
Haider Ackermann is a natty textile technician, and a wicked tailor. Those two aspects of his oeuvre (as they say in French) are what netted him Berluti: his debut happens this Friday, and we’re all on tenterhooks. But the appointment
Valentino: Menswear AW17
Pierpaolo Piccioli proffered precious punk princes, persuasively… at Valentino. I was trying to aliterate the whole thing, but it’s not humanly possible. But precious punk prince is an apt summary of Valentino’s clothing this season, where the house’s precious, couture-quality
Balenciaga: Menswear AW17
A treatise on ‘Corporate Dressing’ was the notion behind Demna Gvasalia’s second Balenciaga menswear collection, for winter 2017. But don’t think McDonald’s uniforms, rather the uniforms of the corporate raiders of the eighties - sharp business suits flecked with power
Alexander McQueen: Menswear AW17
Because who needs all that hassle of going to a fashion show, when you can, instead view an entire collection through image alone? And no, we don't mean those straight up and down Vogue Runway jobbies, but instead these beaut
Giorgio Armani: Menswear AW17
Mr Armani has spoken, and he’s said throw out the manx. Man spanx. Well, not in so many words. But he did call this, his AW17 collection, a release - a release from rigidity, to paraphrase the pre-show notes. Who
Fendi: Menswear AW17
Fendi’s winter 2017 menswear packed a pretty hefty wallop - it always does. It’s something about a man wearing a full-length fur coat, and fur slides, and a fur beanie, as well as a bag dangling mink and fox google-eyed
No 21: Menswear AW17
Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s No 21 menswear is known for taking proposing a delicate variation on masculinity - even a feminine one, you may say. But his winter 2017 show was heartier, meatier, you may even say butcher than we’re used to.
Prada: Menswear AW17
The Prada space at Via Fogazzaro always lends clues as to the brand’s collection to be shown there: witness the latest, for winter 2017. A series of wooden dividers chopped up the cavernous space into warrens of catwalk: throughout, leatherette-wrapped
#D2gether: DSquared2 Show Men’s And Womenswear AW17 In Milan
Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared2 can inject anything with a dose of high-octane glamour and sex appeal - remember that time a few years back when their models trudged through mud in towering heels, in an ode to “Clamping”?
Marcelo Burlon County Of Milan: Menswear AW17
The gauchos of South America aren’t an empty reference for Marcelo Burlon - he grew up there, hence his Winter 2017 collection was about delving back into his own culture and history, reviving folk styles of the region and translating
Moschino: Menswear AW17
Make love, not war - that could’ve been the message of Jeremy Scott’s latest Moschino collection, although it may have been festooned with military riffing and referencing. After all, most militia berets don’t come bespangled with gewgaws courtesy of London
Versace: Menswear AW17
Meet Versace's freedom fighters. Because Donatella said this, her AW17 menswear collection, was about, “a tribe of people, that has different ideas, beliefs and an opinions… but they love freedom, and they fight for what they want.” What, then, does
Neil Barrett Shows Co-Ed In Milan
Neil Barrett has a long memory. After last winter’s collection exploring his seventies childhood, and the next his teen years, Barrett’s winter 2017 offering was full-on eighties, albeit with a modern twist. It was inspired, he said, by his early
Marni: Menswear AW17
Francesco Risso is the new man in at Marni - boldly, the brand decided to debut his talents at Milan’s menswear season, rather than storing up until womenswear. Perhaps it shows how important menswear is to Marni? Or how important