Paul Smith Shows His Very First Co-Ed Show In Paris
What’s that gamine creature coming towards us? A… woman? Yes, your eyes do not deceive you, that was a man and woman opening Paul Smith's AW17 show today, trotting down the catwalk in beautiful synchronicity. Because this, for the very first
Loewe: Menswear AW17
Jonathan Anderson is very, very clever. He’s revived Loewe spectacularly, and speedily - in three years, it’s risen to the top of the fashion pile. The odd collages and juxtapositions are what give this designer’s work - at his own
Kolor: Menswear AW17
Junichi Abe’s Kolor is a masterful proponent of hybridising garments, mixing jackets and shirts and sweaters into twisty, seemingly complicated cross-breed without ever getting so knotted up the whole thing looks difficult or undesirable. Thats how Kolor has carved out
Hermès: Menswear AW17
There’s something to be said for a classic. And who does classic better than Hermès? You can practically smell the luxury. Taste it. Shows that, refreshingly, are about nothing other than some bloody great clothes. No obscure references here -
Balmain: Menswear AW17
We’re all figured that 2016 wasn’t the great year on record, for many reasons. We’re not going to mention the politician whose surname is synonymous in Britain with flatulence - and who is also, ironically, full of hot air -
Dior Homme: Menswear AW17
Kris Van Assche is, at heart, a club kid. That’s often the inspiration behind his Dior Homme collections, and it always creates a certain distinct design tension - combining a spirit of rebellion with the savoir-faire of a French haute
Sacai: Menswear AW17
In a season where hybrid garments - half pac-a-mac, half suit blazer; a cross between a jumper and a coat - are high ion the agenda, Chitose Abe was in her element. Hybrids have extended to the catwalks themselves too,
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus: Menswear AW17
Boys love toys. We know that well. So does Rei Kawakubo, who was in an unusually playful mood for her Winter 2017 Comme des Garçons Homme Plus collection. Her boys didn't just love their toys, they wore them, with mounds
Givenchy: Menswear AW17
America is on everyone’s minds right now - before Riccardo Tisci’s latest Givenchy collection kicked off, journos were passing around images of the Trump inauguration and commiserating with the US press. Tisci has turned to it before for Givenchy inspiration -
Juun.J: Menswear AW17
Happy birthday Juun.J! That conveniently rhymes, and neatly describes the fact that… well, it’s Juun.J’s birthday. Not the actual birthday of the actual Mr Juun.J, but of his label, which hits a decade in business this season. Doing so made
Dries Van Noten: Menswear AW17
Dries Van Noten is obsessed with cloth - at least, he was this season. Seems like a daft thing to say, as without cloth we’d all be naked like the fashion show in that dodgy Robert Altman film Prêt-à-porter (incidentally,
Yohji Yamamoto: Menswear AW17
There are a multitude of references to Yohji Yamamoto’s eighties heyday abounding on the catwalks of the winter 2017 season - the wide shoulder and fluid, unstructured shapes characteristic of his clothes back then are looking right for right now.
Louis Vuitton: Menswear AW17
Collaboration is key at Louis Vuitton - they done it with Takashai Murakami, with Richard Prince, with Stephen Spouse and several times with Jake and Dinos Chapman - their ghoulish menagerie of mutated animals grinned from many a clutched man-bag
Rick Owens: Menswear AW17
Is Rick Owens a covert Mariah Carey fan? You may scoff, but backstage at his winter 2017 show the title writ large above the looks was “GLITTER”. Immediately you thought of the ill-fated album, or perhaps the film dubbed one
Off-White: Menswear AW17
Who would have had Virgil Abloh down as a C.S. Lewis aficionado? There was definitely something of the Narnia to his winter 2017 offering, as models trudged through an enchanted wood erected inside the UNESCO building. Although there was no