When he’s not in the studio, Setchu designer Satoshi Kuwata likes to go fishing. His favourite past time has taken him across the world, most recently Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe, where he caught a tiger fish. He was there as part of an initiative with LVMH Métiers d’Art – the designer won the LVMH Prize in 2023 – to work with local craftsmen from the country. The result was a series of skirts and hats made from palm by the local Batoka tribe that brought an extra layer of experimentation to Kuwata’s elegant wardrobe this season.
What makes Setchu’s clothes shine is their ability to transform. Safari jackets, for instance, can be carried as XXL totes thanks to hidden handles, while shirts and colourful knits can be worn in various, wrap-around finishes thanks to interchangeable zips and button holes. He fuses pristine tailoring (the designer trained on Savile Row) with a Japanese approach to functionality – garments can be not only worn various ways but are built with origami-like folds so pieces can be packed away without becoming wrinkled. This sense of ease was transferred to new elements introduced to the brand this season, like baggy jeans that swung low at the hips and jumpers that were tied at the navel by a fish-shaped fastening to expose the midriff. It’s excellent to see Kuwata’s design handwriting evolve each season. His great talent and innovations will keep taking this designer upstream.
Photography courtesy of Setchu.
