January 18, 2026 |
Setchu’s AW26 co-ed show in Milan was sharp, focused and unusually hands-on. Staged in Satoshi Kuwata’s new studio space, it opened with Kuwata narrating the runway himself, talking through each look as it appeared while physically adding and adjusting garments on some of the models. Coats were folded, re-fastened and reshaped on the body, transforming into bags or shifting into new silhouettes, setting a practical tone from the outset.
Outerwear drove the collection across menswear and womenswear. Angular coats with pushed-in armholes created sculptural, protective shapes, drawing from Arctic survival garments without becoming literal. Pinstripe tailoring cut through the show with precision, often paired with thigh-high boots that extended the line of the leg and sharpened the silhouette.
The palette stayed muted and controlled, allowing cut and construction to take centre stage. Subtle deconstruction appeared through exposed seams and disrupted volumes, but the clothes remained clean and intentional. Occasional iridescent surfaces nodded to animal skins and extreme-weather protection, referencing Greenland in a quiet, contemporary way.
Once the narration fell away and the show moved into a steady rhythm, the strength of the collection became clear. AW26 was about precision and adaptability, with garments designed to change function without losing clarity. It was a clear display of what Setchu does best: intelligent, well-considered clothing that places wear and construction at the centre.
Photography courtesy of Setchu.
