October 5, 2021 |
Barely a day goes by and another A-lister is pictured wearing Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli. In the past month alone, Cardi B, Lady Gaga and Adele have each been wearing the brand’s surrealist takes on eveningwear. And do you blame them? These clothes command a spectacle: who wouldn’t want to shoot the world’s biggest stars in couture dripping in gold-plated body parts?
The designer’s collections always begin with Elsa Schiaparelli herself; a woman who “gave this house not only its name, but its identity,” as penned by Roseberry in his show notes. And while her “psycho chic” design hand – as named by Roseberry – is woven into everything he does, the designer began thinking about what Elsa would wear at home or on holiday. Moments when you’re supposed to strip off, not pile a load of stuff on.
He splits his SS22 collection into two parts. The first, Elsa in the city, sees Roseberry clash the codes of the house (exaggerated shapes, pliable breasts, the jewellery) with sleek seventies-inspired ready-to-wear – including mini dresses with sculpted bodices and tailored twin sets with exaggerated horse-bit detailings in exaggerated Schiaparelli proportions. The following segment takes Elsa to the beach, where the brand’s signature toe boots become holiday-ready mules, and leather unitards, sequined floral tracksuits and swimsuits adorned with flowers at the boobs envision a summer wardrobe like no other.
Photography courtesy of Schiaparelli.
