October 3, 2025 |
Why do something average, when you can do something extraordinary? That’s the magical thinking that has propelled Daniel Roseberry and Schiaparelli into fashion’s premiere league. He is a consummate storyteller and showman. His couture sensibility is his super power, giving him the ability to make clothes and catwalks feel like an event.
For SS26, he showed at the Centre Pompidou, which got him thinking about the importance of museums, and how the precious objects within them give us something that throw-away, online culture cannot. “Maybe the hunger today is less to be entertained, and more to be inspired. Entertainment isn’t just omnipresent – it’s inescapable. But inspiration – genuine inspiration – feels precious and rare,” he said. This is what he wants to emulate in fashion. His desire is to create clothes that inspire.
To that end, he poured craft and quirk into every piece. The sharp shoulders jackets worn with pencil skirts, he described as a “celebration of discipline” so precise were they in their cut. Satin pads at the hips or shoulders were the only decoration. Dots were a theme, created not with print but with tufted textures or cut-out port holes, layered in leather or knit. Bias dresses, a new skill mastered by the designer, were spliced with sheer panels and brought a new sensuality to the Schiaparelli look. Drama? Wind-swept collars created a feeling of movement and trompe l’oeil knits based on the designer’s nude etchings brought a whole new meaning to body con.
Photography courtesy of Schiaparelli.
