The last few seasons have seen Saul Nash flirt with the idea of moving beyond the sportswear which has become his signature – most prominently his SS25 collection, a study of the archetypes that make a man’s wardrobe. Making his Milan Fashion Week debut yesterday afternoon, Nash used his entrance to the menswear capital as a moment to work his movement-based cutting prowess into a broad range of garments. He was thinking about the idea of metamorphosis; both in how his own tastes and desires from his wardrobe are changing, but also infusing an element of transformation into many of the garments shown on the catwalk. Like a parka, cut with kinetic lines for ample movement, belted with a cummerbund that can be worn both as a scarf or a cross-body bag. Or soft-to-touch cupro shirts that can be unbuttoned and tied at the neck to change their shape.
Known for his dance-infused fashion shows, he opted for a more traditional catwalk, the focus solely on the clothes, which included military-inspired, ventilated leather jackets with cut outs at the armpits – so they can be worn without sleeves – and Japanese Kaihara Denim twinsets adorned with a smoky moving body print. “I want to create garments that allow people to liberate themselves,” said Nash, creating experimental pieces like hooded office shirts made of nylon and a hoodie that drops into a long-line basketball jersey. There was also an excellent collaboration with Canadian sports giant Lululemon, which included leather bags and copper-hued track tops that can be peeled back into short sleeved shirts. Milan looks good on Saul Nash!
Photography by Christina Fragkou.
