When it comes to Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent, glamorous evening wear of the highest grandeur is shared amongst all genders. This season, the designer brought his menswear collection back to Paris after decamping to Marrakech for his SS23 spectacle. Returning to home turf, he chose the concrete cylinder that lies in the heart of Bourse de Commerce to house his AW23 outing. He dubbed the collection “a sequel to proceeding seasons”, where the elongated silhouettes of his womenswear and his men’s sharp tailoring collided harmoniously. Long, fluid, assertive: there’s a restrained elegance to what Vaccarello does. Whether it’s floor-skimming duster coats, knitted dresses that envelop the body, or hooded tunics that pay homage to YSL’s capuche dresses from the 1980s.
The designer chose a restricted palette of mainly black, grey, white and navy, pointing the focus instead to the precision of his cut. Opting for cashmere, satin and mohair to fashion this season’s looks, the designer is uniting his men’s and women’s collections beyond just fabric choices. His collections speak of a unified opulence; a dialogue between “masculine and feminine” dress that couldn’t feel more suited to the now. In Vaccarello’s hands, signature Saint Laurent codes are painted anew.
Photography courtesy of Saint Laurent.
