For Sacai’s AW24 men’s and women’s collection, Chitose Abe tapped into a love of ‘uniform’. Under the title United as One / One Love, Abe’s monochromatic approach to dressing – most of the collection was jet black or eggshell white – drew the eye to distinctive, complex shapes, as well as new ones.
For men, the baggier it was, the better it was. Bomber jackets were cut with “one love” graphic T-shirts to form a hybrid idea of what outerwear should be. These were worn with huge, tailored trousers and furry footwear.
For women, knits were woven with delicate, intertwining sequins while flowy dresses were formed from shredded Fair Isle fabrics. A new spherical silhouette was made huskier than ever by big, ballooning sleeves, while that “elongated vertical hybrid” shape – seen mainly on women – was created using skewed strips of fabrics, accentuated by the addition of zippers in some places and spliced-up pockets in others.
Pastel hues and cool-tone colours also punched through the lineup, introducing a sense of gentleness that the brand hasn’t explored before.
Sacai has long had a penchant for tapping into the unique expertise of others, and its AW24 collection was no different. In fact, it was rife with crossover-collaborations. Skateboard pioneer Mark Gonzales created graphic badges – reminiscent of wilderness Americana – which were applied to Spiewak G8 jackets, reimagined by Sacai, while J.M. Weston’s quintessential Golf Derbies and Worker boots were remade with Sacai’s signature sneaker sole. Chitose Abe’s Sacai is the master when it comes to skewing conventions and reconfiguring uniformity.
Photography courtesy of Sacai.
