October 12, 2022 |
Roksanda Ilinčić is a beloved designer amongst those in the art world. Her bold approach to colour and sculptural silhouettes are favourites of architects, artists and hi-brow dealers alike, many of whom populated the front row of her SS23 show inside Theaster Gates’ Black Chapel at the Serpentine Pavilion yesterday morning.
Originally due to take place during London Fashion Week – Roksanda’s slot was on the day of Queen Elizabeth II’s funeral – moving to Frieze Week made total sense. “This is my fifth time showing [at the Serpentine] and subconsciously it probably influences my collections,” she said post show. “A lot of my clients come from the art world, often they are not in town [for the show] so it was really incredible to have them here. It was lovely to bring the art world and fashion world together.”
Roksanda has come to Gates’ wooden installation, which is cylinder in shape and painted entirely black, on numerous occasions to reflect. She dedicated the collection to her father, who recently passed. She based the looks around the dualities of roses – which, as the press release notes, are “appointed at births, taken to weddings, and put on a grave”.
She carefully controlled heaps of taffeta into blooming roses in teal, mint and fuchsia across dresses and skirts. Looking back to her earliest collections inspired the designer’s return to grand volumes: “I see [these pieces] as sculpture, really.”
Elsewhere, liquid-y silk frocks came elegantly draped and adorned with gold talismans which danced along the spine. These were worn alongside slightly-swollen suits and silk scarfs emblazoned in the work of artist Pipilotti Rist, as well as Noel Stewart headgear which resembled supersized graduation caps.
Three all-black gowns closed the show. Impressive in their vastness, Roksanda’s architectural silhouettes proved that even when devoid of glorious colour, her designs pack serious emotional value.
Photography courtesy of Roksanda.
