September 30, 2023 |
As the swishing sound of liquid metal mesh washed over the room, Julien Dossena unveiled his archeological SS24 Rabanne collection. An erotic, poetic, mediaeval sci-fi fantasy, he called it Origins of the Future.
From start to finish, traditional coverings were reinterpreted with gilded adornments as if they were modern relics of distant civilisations. Draped like depictions of antique marble statuary, sarouel pants, folded-over scarf tops and draped skirts and shorts were decked with geometric metallic embroidery, fringe and decadent lacing. Peacock feathers protruded from metal mesh in baronial tones of gold, silver and luminous copper, adding a touch of chimeric mystery to the looks, while heavy chainmail hoods with forehead pendants hung over the heads of some of the suited-and-gladiator-booted girls. Elsewhere bodies were sheathed with belts built from gleaming spheres and worn with sandals decorated with rock crystals reminiscent of mystic goddesses. Models looked statuesque and powerfully feminine.
Jean Clemmer’s iconic 1962 collaboration with Paco Rabanne, Nues – where the two produced a series of provocative images depicting women who were nearly nude save for the distinctive Rabanne chains that encircled, cascaded and draped from their bodies – was reprinted across ribbed tank tops. A shimmering dress of Swarovski crystals and metal mesh was subtly undercut by one of those erotic vests, bringing a bit of mid-century provocation to the range.
Photography by Christina Fragkou.
