February 12, 2023 |
Exactly 20 years ago, on February 11, 2003 Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s first Proenza Schouler show debuted with an array of bustiers, sharply tailored coats and slinky pencil skirts. It was the type of wardrobe for a woman who held a creative (albeit corporate leaning) job by day, but opted to spend her nights partying it up at Bungalow 8. Perhaps it’s fitting then that two decades later, Chloe Sevigny, the It girl of the mid-00s who fit exactly that description, wound up opening the show. Clad in a nipped in at the waist blazer and leather skirt worn with slouchy boots, Sevigny, like Proenza Schouler, is all grown up but still chic, cool and fascinating as ever.
Sevigny pulled double duty, not just as a model but also narrating the soundtrack, a series of journal entries written by Ottessa Moshfegh set to music by Arca. In the entries, Moshfegh creates a fictional woman who explores her inner monologue, musing on work, her partner, her child and the joys in everyday life. The clothes are meant to be a reflection of these inner thoughts, told 40 different ways via the 40 looks. The show notes describe the collection as the duo’s most personal to date, which makes sense, given the significance of the date and the strange yet thrilling feeling, knowing that you have clients that have literally spent most of their adult lives in your clothes.
You’ll hear the words “grown up” and “classic” used a lot to describe Proenza Schouler’s latest collection and for good reason – there’s a sense of timelessness to the suiting, loose in all the right places and cut close at the leg. While most of the jackets, skirts, and trousers were in neutrals, an acid green blouse worn with a navy suit reminded you that while the Proenza woman might prefer somber tones, she still has the ability to surprise you. Outerwear, which remains a strong suit, was equally prominent in the collection, with a fuzzy yellow coat that’ll surely be a street style hit. And while the brand isn’t necessarily the first that comes to mind for evening dressing, there are some pieces that will surely be seen on future red carpets whether it’s the long red leather draped gown or the head-to-toe sparkly knits, worn with matching glittery boots.
20 years is a long time to be in the fashion business and you only need to look at other debuts around that time to see who’s been able to tough it out and thrive, especially independently. But perhaps the willingness to go back to what a woman wants – a great blazer, a blouse that feels hefty yet luxurious and a fantastic coat, is the secret to evolving with your customer.
Text by Diana Tsui. Photography courtesy of Proenza Schouler.
